USP This is the first fully branded ESPA spa in Japan, which, blended with the Peninsula group's legendary attention to detail and generally impeccable Japanese service means you can expect the standard here to be pretty high.

The five-star hotel opened in September 2007 and is a key player in the rejuvenation of the city's Marunouchi area – and a refreshing reminder that modern Japanese buildings can be attractive, after all – it's within walking distance of Tokyo station and has the added cachet of overlooking the grounds of the Imperial palace.

AMBIENCE The spa reception, on the sixth floor, overlooks the fitness centre's magnificent 20-metre pool and shares its two storey views of the palace grounds. Like the rest of the hotel the atmosphere is calm and luxurious with subtle reminders of where you are – all eight treatment rooms have traditional "washi" paper light fixtures and are decorated in white with hints of earth tones such as beige marble and dark wood. The relaxation room also has shoji paper screens to give an air of privacy.

QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE There are some 30 treatments available at the Peninsula Spa, but only two that are unique to Tokyo: the Keihatsu Enlightenment massage and the Lighten and Brighten face and back treatment. I opted for the former, the more traditional of the two, which today lasts for one hour and 50 minutes but has evolved from the ancient traditional massage techniques of Nihon Kaifuku Anma, believed to have originated in Eastern Asia around 3,000 years ago.

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BACKGROUND

• Peninsula Spa by Espa, Hong Kong

• The Oriental Spa, Bangkok, Thailand

• Taj Green Cove spa, Kerala, India

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• For more than 240 independent spa reviews

The treatment started with a footbath using sea kelp and fresh ginger. I was then asked to choose an essential oil based on how I would like to feel after the massage – I chose to feel rejuvenated, largely because my therapist (who like all the ESPA therapists at the Peninsula spoke fluent English – an ability that is less common in Japan than you might think) advised me that whichever scent seemed to be the strongest was the one I needed – and bearing in mind I had only flown in the day before, she was right.

My body was then lightly brushed, to help shift any blockages of Qi, or energy, before the therapist began a very thorough full-body massage using a mixture of kneading, rolling and stretching techniques with her palms, forearms and heated stones – which are believed to be ten times more effective than any human applied pressure could be.

Finally I was treated to a head massage using the oils I had chosen earlier. The pressure was perfect throughout – and my therapist focused on my shoulders but was careful of my neck exactly as I had requested. I have to admit that I felt more relaxed than rejuvenated at the end of it, but I did have remarkably little jetlag - and perhaps this is why.

IN-CROWD Half and full-day packages are available and the spa is proving popular with locals and hotel residents alike, but - and despite the fact that the fitness area links to the spa reception - I only encountered two other guests in the nearly three hours I was there.

FOOD The spa's signature treatments, which included my massage, are begun with a cup of matcha – the thick, bitter tasting green tea which is generally served at traditional tea ceremonies – and a rather less traditional chocolate macaroon from the hotel bakery. There is also complementary fruit, fresh juices and mineral water in the relaxation room.

Away from the spa, the hotel itself has five dining options (all of which include options from the "Naturally Peninsula" organic food range): The Lobby, for breakfast and afternoon tea; the Hei Fung Terrace, a Chinese restaurant; Tsuruya, the sister restaurant of the famed Kyoto Kaiseki restaurant (Kaiseki is a traditional Japanese meal of up to 14 small seasonal dishes); Peter, a European style restaurant next to the bar, and finally a more casual option, the Peninsula Boutique & Café.

Be warned though – Tokyoites loves anything new, and so non-residents should expect waiting lists of up to a month for tables at the Tsuruya and Hei Fung Terrace restaurants.

WALLET WATCH Rooms start from 60,000 Yen (about £265) for a Superior Room. My Keihatsu Enlightenment massage cost Y47, 000 (just over £200) for one hour and 50 minutes (most other treatments which last the same amount of time are the same price). Also available are a selection of largely Ayurvedic inspired massages, facials and treatments targeted at men.

NEED TO KNOW The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 100-0006, Japan ([81-3] 6270 2888;http://tokyo.peninsula.com/) E-mail: ptk@peninsula.com

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