USP Formally a fortress, now an impressive residence and spa, Kasbah Agafay sits on the outskirts of Marrakesh - high on a desert hill overlooking olive groves and herb gardens with panoramic views of the Atlas mountains.

The whole place oozes serenity; making it an ideal retreat from ordinary life and the perfect antidote to the frenetic energy of the Medina 20 minutes away.

AMBIENCE Sympathetically restored to 18th-Century glory - with all the comforts of a modern 5-star hotel. Luxuriously rustic: decorated throughout with beautiful, original carvings, mosaics and furnished with antique Berber furniture and textiles.

The labyrinth of corridors reveals individually designed bedrooms set around six riad-style courtyards with retractable roofs and flower filled fountains. For the active, there are tennis courts and a fabulous swimming pool. The open-air, bamboo canopied spa is set in the aromatic herb garden and has billowing muslin, water features and relaxation rooms.

BACKGROUND

• Palais Rhoul and Spa, Marrakesh, Morocco

• One big party in Morocco

• Top 10 breaks to get you out of a rut

South of France Spas

• Le Couvent d'Hérépian, France

• The Sisley Spa, Byblos Hotel, St Tropez

• Fermes de Marie, Villa Marie, St Tropez

• Le Mas Candille, Mougins, France

• The Four Seasons, Provence

8 spas for budget-seekers

Thrifty indulgence: from the best £30 massage in London to a full hammam for a fiver in Syria

Related Internet Links

• For more than 270 spa reviews

Service is impeccable: friendly and discreet - especially with Khalil, the Kasbah’s manager overseeing your every need.

EXPERIENCE Tired from souk shopping the night before and saddle sore from the morning’s desert horse ride (not to mention a little grimy) a traditional Moroccan gommage and hamman followed by an aromatherapy massage couldn’t have been more appealing or better timed.

Dressed head to toe in white our hamman “lady” Khadija beckoned us into the entrance strewn with rose petals and gestured for us to remove our clothes - completely.

After a little nervous laughter, my friend and I just looked at one another and got naked - perhaps the steam and aroma of essential oils helped banish shyness – who knows, but it just felt the natural thing to do. Leaving our “British inhibitions” behind us, we were led into the small candlelit inner chamber, complete with stone basin (and fabulous oversized taps) and a mat on the floor.

It was here that we took it in turns to be vigorously scrubbed all over (she didn’t miss a bit) with black Moroccan soap and dry loofah, this was followed by a mask of clay and then massage oil. Each step of the ritual washed away with buckets of warm water revealing ever softer and smoother bodies. The whole experience was invigorating, yet so sensual and intimate that we emerged from the hamman a little heady and at least two skin shades lighter - my fake tan didn’t stand a chance.

Buffed and barefooted, we took the scenic route across the gardens to the spa, taking in some much needed air before the next installment. The aim of the Aromatherapy massage was to target the nervous system and bring mind and body into balance - the hamman had definitely given us a head start. With the language barrier fully in place, I didn’t hear a peep from my boyfriend next door; only the sound of the cascading walls of water, which adorned each room.

Somehow, despite the best efforts of my therapist, Ilham and the hypnotic sound of aforementioned waterfall I managed to stay conscious. It was an almost a perfect treatment, definitely up there in my top ten of massages – it just needed to be an hour rather than 45 minutes.

Starting with the legs, she used a blend of western and eastern massage techniques, skillfully and firmly tackling my aching muscles and knotted shoulders with perfect pressure and rhythm - and to top it off, a superb foot rub; I was in heaven. Afterwards, while I struggled to regain the power of speech it transpired that next door, the massage was “great, but just not firm enough” – though from the smile on his face, he clearly hadn’t minded too much.

FOOD Traditional, tasty and nutritious - the daily changing menu is prepared by Moroccan chefs using fresh local (mostly organic) produce and where possible vegetables and herbs from the garden. Breakfasts are delicious and vast; we took ours overlooking the garden, post swim. We also enrolled in a highly entertaining Moroccan cookery class with head chef Howard and dined on the (very successful) fruits of our labour in the olive grove.

IN-CROWD At times, it felt like we had the place to ourselves (which suited us perfectly). The only other guests were a few well-heeled middle-aged couples and a small group of girl friends escaping for the weekend. Sadly, regular guest Jude Law didn’t make an appearance during our visit. Given its location and facilities, the Kasbah is often hired in its entirety for parties, weddings and conferences.

WALLET WATCH Unfortunately, this haven of relaxation doesn’t come cheap; But then special places like Kasbah Agafay, never do. Rooms are based on double occupancy, include breakfast and range from €400 (£315) to €500 (£360) for a Kasbah suite.

Fortunately, treatments are a little easier on the wallet: Our hamman came in at €30 euros and traditional Aromatherapy massage €60. Other delights include a 90-minute Rose Indulgence scrub and massage for a rather reasonable €70 and Aromatic Bath Treatment (with individually selected herbs and oils) for €15.

NEED TO KNOW Kasbah Agafay, Marrakesh, Morocco (+212 24 36 86 00; www.kasbahagafay.com). EasyJet fly daily from Gatwick to Marrakesh starting from £58 one way: www.easyjet.com

The Kasbah is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World Collection www.slh.com

Times recommends

• The three best routes to the Med
• How to cash in on your holiday money
• 10 tips for the perfectly packed suitcase