USP High above the lake in Zurich, the 19th-century Dolder Grand hotel has reopened after a radical four-year facelift with two new wings and a spa designed by Foster and Partners. Smart, sleek and magnificently cool, it’s crying out to take centre stage in the next Bond movie.

AMBIENCE The spa is tucked into the Dolderberg hill under the hotel but this is no dark basement affair. Light floods into the canyon-like pool area, with its pale stone walls and black granite pool bottom, and pre or post treatments you can wallow in the spa pools on the terrace and gaze at the Alps – or the city below.

“Classic traditions with a techno beat” is the spa’s slogan. That translates into a comprehensive list of European and Japanese influenced treatments – as well as novelties like the tsunaburos: baths filled with warmed fine pebbles and the ideal place to relax after a sauna and a shockingly icy minute or so in the snow paradise chamber.

There’s also all manner of showers and steam rooms, workout studios, a candlelit meditation room (reached by a winding meditation walk), a cafe and even a well-stocked library. For well-heeled couples there are two private spa suites and for mummies who want to stay yummy, Botox and laser treatments are available.

EXPERIENCE I was staying in the hotel so padded down to the spa in my robe and slippers. I’d chosen a smoothing, repairing facial by Kenzoki. Perfect for an hour’s pampering, with not a painful extraction in sight, I drifted off during the massage, which was accompanied by a soundtrack of whale music and Swiss cow bells.

I woke up thinking that a light snow shower was falling onto my face – in fact I was being tickled by a feather duster. Bizarre but entirely enjoyable.

Feeling smoothed and soothed I then went up to the waiting room and had a cup of herb tea (a few glossies to flick through would have been nice) while I waited for the therapist in charge of my my 60-minute Authentic Moor Mud body treatment. It turned out to be a man, which was slightly alarming for a prissy Brit like me but hey ho.

The hour-long treatment involved massage, slathering on the muddy concoction and then being wrapped up and left to stew in a plastic duvet. Not at all unpleasant but I was glad to shower off the goo – and my skin certainly felt softer for the experience.

FOOD The spa has its own café, but I was saving myself for dinner in The Restaurant. The food is modern Swiss with a nod towards the molecular gastronomy of chefs such as Heston Blumentahl. Highlights were turbot and veal with tomatoes and lovage, and spiced chocolate with corn and coriander. It was also a great opportunity to try some Swiss wine – the 2006 Humagne Blanc was excellent – which is hard to find in the UK.

IN CROWD The spa had just opened and was blissfully quiet but expect hotel guests, local members of the spa and passing celebs who’ve booked into the Maestro suite.

WALLET WATCH My Kenzoki facial and Moor mud treatments cost £83 each. To use the spa as a day visitor you have to become a member for a staggering £7,000. In order to use all the spa facilities, treatments over the value of £220 have to be booked by non-residents.

NEED TO KNOW The Dolder Grand, Kurhausstrasse 65, 8032 Zurich, 00 41 44 456 60 00, www.thedoldergrand.com. Double Rooms start from about £440 per room, per night.

Swiss (0845 601 0956; www.swiss.com/uk) flies to Zurich from London City Airport from £104 return

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