USP Forget faux Buddhas and incense sticks, this West Country spa is proud of its roots

Mission A honeymoon spent travelling with Rufus, our ten-month-old son, was never going to be relaxing, or particularly romantic. Wake-up calls at 6am and sporadic (but surprisingly noisy) night-time gurglings are just some of the joys of sharing a room with a baby. Apart from curtailing more obvious honeymoon activities, the other side-effect was sleep deprivation.

Romantic meals with my new husband (and the baby monitor) were conducted with half an eye on the clock, to make sure we were in bed early enough to ensure at least seven hours of shut-eye.

Several nights of insomnia-inspired behaviour from Rufus meant that by the end of the week-long sojourn, I was doubtful that anything could put a twinkle back in my eye. What about a two-hour signature spa treatment at the boutique hotel Barnsley House in the Cotswolds? I was willing to give it a try.

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Ambience To be honest, a couple of hours in a darkened room may have done the trick, so two baby-free hours at a spa this beautiful couldn't fail.

Purpose-built in 2007, it is set in the grounds of Barnsley House where Rosemary Verey, one of Britain's best-known gardeners, lived for 40 years. With its own contemporary garden inspired by her classic design, there are sculptures made from old walling stone, a pond with waterfalls and a 36C hydrotherapy pool with vigorous massage showers all set against the backdrop of the Gloucestershire countryside. This is visible, complete with grazing cows, from the glass-walled relaxation room.

Inside, 6ft chandeliers hang against tradi-tional dry stone walls made from local Cotswold stone. A steam room, sauna, six treatment rooms, leather chaises longues and real log fires complete the picture.

Experience I had the signature treatment, a two-hour extravaganza of exfoliation, massage, and hot-stone therapy. Using gorgeously scented REN skincare products the therapist adeptly manipulated and massaged my body, with a no-nonsense touch which was confident and invigorating.

After the two hours and a brief collapse in the relaxation room I went to get changed and check the mirror for a twinkle in my eye. Not only did I have a twinkle, I had panda eyes where my mascara had been smeared around my face. It did seem odd that during a two-hour facial my face had not been properly cleansed. However, this is a small quibble, about what was probably one of my best spa experiences ever - and I've had a few!

In crowd The spa gets a splattering of celeb-types but they are too discreet to divulge names, although it's a safe bet that Liz Hurley pops over sometimes as she is a neighbour. The spa is open to all hotel guests, and locals can book treatments and use the spa on Mondays to Thursdays.

Food and drink As most spa-goers are guests, the restaurant is the main port of call for nosh, however the spa does serve herbal tea.

Wallet watch It's not cheap, my treatment cost £155. The most expensive thing is a full-body massage for two in the specially designed therapy room for £190. A 45-minute pedicure is £45, an Indian head massage is £65, and a French polish £15. A night's stay starts from £295 for a double room and includes continental breakfast.

Need to know Barnsley House, Barnsley, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 5EE. Phone 01285 740900 or visit www.barnsleyhouse.com for reservations.

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