USP In:spa runs fitness retreats, taking over small hotels and flying out a crack team of specialists. For 15 guests there were two personal trainers, a nutritionist, chef and yoga instructor, hosted by Gillian Crotty, one of the in:spa owners. Only the masseuses and hiking guides were local. All the exercise activities were voluntary and there's a policy of not pressuring people to take part.

Ambience A Kasbah-style hotel, sitting above an eight-mile stretch of deserted beach in the Souss-Massa national park, about an hour south of Agadir. Once inside, there were terraced gardens, with informal seating areas, leading up to a large, rather beautiful pool. Rooms were a mix of boutique hotel and traditional Moroccan, with walk-in showers and lots of lamps. Yoga classes were held on a roof terrace or in a simple room with sea views.

Experience If you want to improve your fitness significantly and rid yourself of bad eating habits, this is the place to come. The day started and ended with yoga, led by Kate Harrell, who teaches at the über-fashionable Triyoga in Primrose Hill, North London. In the mornings there was either circuit-training or one of three hikes through the national park. The hikes were the big fitness challenge, not least because large sections were on sand (it soon became clear why we'd been asked to bring Compeed blister plasters). The first hike was a two-and-a-half hour trek to a lagoon with pink flamingos and a wild boar skittering about near by. Each guest also had a personal training session, which could be anything from deep stretching to ocean-swimming, and a session with a nutritionist, Kenny. The only grumbles were about the quality of the massage. The normal masseurs were unavailable, and while their replacements performed competent Swedish-style treatments, those wanting deep-tissue massage, which focused on particular problems, were disappointed.

Products Local massage oils, with natural scents.

Salon spy: Return to Glory

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BACKGROUND

• Salon spy: Posthotel, Achenkirch, Austria

• Salon spy: Tantrum, Kings Road, London

• Salon spy: Ragdale Hall Health Hydro and Thermal Spa

• Salon spy: The Grove, Herts

• Salon spy: Skin Health Spa, London

BACKGROUND

• Salon spy: Eleven, London W1

• Salon spy: Daniel Galvin

• Salon Spy: Club 10, Hotel Principe di Savoia, Milan

• Salon spy: Origins, Covent Garden, London

• Salon spy: Fordham Soho, London

In-crowd An intelligent, eclectic group, including a diplomat, an advertising executive and two Mancunian businesswomen. Ages ranged from late twenties to fifties, with couples and singles. This is essentially a group holiday, with everyone sitting together for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Food Wheat and dairy-free, with no red meat, the food was designed to provide a full detox. There was no caffeine and no alcohol, except for the final night when the champagne came out. Herbs and spices were used to create strong flavours in the absence of added salt and sugar. By the end of the week I'd lost an inch off my waist.

Wallet watch You pay for the staff, so if all you are looking for are a few massages and an occasional yoga class, this may not be the holiday for you. A week, including all activities, meals and transfers, was £1,895 per person, based on two people sharing a double room, or £2,450 for single occupancy. (Groups are no larger than 25 guests.) I flew with First Choice from Gatwick to Agadir for £175. Having gone on a retreat, you automatically become a member of in:spa club, which hosts activities and social events.

Need to know For more information go to www.inspa.co.uk or call 0845 4580723

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