Claire Bowman
Grab an Italian masterpiece for less

USP Trendy Cowshed pampering comes to Cornwall.
AMBIENCE As you would expect from the people who brought us the funky Cowshed brand, the spa is light, airy and seriously stylish with six decent-sized treatment rooms, a "manicure station" and relaxation lounge. There's also a fully fitted gym, lap and fun pools and a hamman-style steam room and sauna (there are also plans to build an Art-Deco-style pool and tennis courts).
The original 1930s St Mortiz Hotel - which was all cream teas and comfy sofas and aperitifs in the sun room - has just had a 21st-century Miami-style makeover and now resembles a grand Art-Deco ocean liner. The hotel is clearly pitching itself at the “discerning” weekender in search of a swish seaside escape, and with its spa, chandeliered reception, champagne bar and rooms kitted out with i-Pod docks, flatscreen TVs and drenching showers, it ticks all the boutique hotel boxes.
QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE When I saw a woman emerge wobbly-legged from the massage suite with a dreamy, slightly intoxicated look on her face I knew I was in for a treat. The Cowshed’s signature massage using relaxing lemon and lavender oil was bliss. Instead of the usual spa pan pipes I drifted off to sleep to the soothing sounds of Jack Johnson on the i-Pod dock. My friend opted for a pedicure as she relaxed with a glass of wine in a squidgy cream leather armchair.
PRODUCTS The Cowshed’s treatments use botanical products from the garden at Babington House.
IN-CROWD Hoxton meets Chiswick-sur-mer: well-heeled weekenders with 4x4s and Boden-wearing kids and trendy urban types sporting black-rimmed glasses, as well as a smattering of chic overseas guests and a very well-behaved hen party.
FOOD Spa serves herbals and juices and can arrange Champagne, nibbles and chocs for hen parties. Light lunches are served upstairs in the restaurant where a stylish British menu uses fresh Cornish ingredients.
The chef, Elliott Ketley, was previously head chef at Soho House in New York and J Sheekey and has also worked at Le Caprice and the Ivy, so it's a cut above the standard seaside fare - hearty Sunday roasts, Manhattan-style brunches and seafood platters from the nearby Newlyn fish markets and an imaginative kids’ menus. Our cooked breakfast was delicious – sausages just as they should be, fresh fruit, Dorset Cereals, all served in the slick canteen dining area.
WALLET WATCH Cowshed Massage £60 for 60 mins; Cowshed Salt Scrub and Massage £75 for 90 mins. A half-day package costs £115 for 3 hours and 30 mins including massage, facial, manicure or pedicure and refreshments. Treatments are also available to non-residents. Double rooms from £95.
NEED TO KNOW St Moritz Hotel, Trebetherick, Wadebridge, Cornwall, PL27 6SD (01208 862242; www.stmortizhotel.co.uk)
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