USP Anyone who knows Edinburgh will appreciate that 1 Princes Street is a prestigious address. Located between the city’s historic Royal Mile and bustling shopping street, and next to the railway station, you can’t fault The Balmoral on location. It’s a great place to dip in for a spa treatment and rest your legs after a morning’s shopping or sightseeing. The hotel is honest in its claim to be a landmark – the grand Edwardian stone building, with its 195-foot clock tower casts an imposing outline against the hulking slopes of Arthur’s Seat, the moss-green hill to the east of the city.

QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE Spa guests are guided by a receptionist through the elegant hotel lobby to the basement, where the spa surrounds a colonnaded 15-metre pool. It’s a touch of personal service that sets the tone for the service throughout the spa, although without a guide, newcomers to the hotel would undoubtedly get lost in the hotel’s warren of corridors and staircases. From the spa reception I was collected by my therapist and taken to a serene and subtly-decorated treatment room, thankfully devoid of the mind-numbing dolphin/panpipe music that is now a common soundtrack at so many spas. The Espa Holistic Back, Face and Scalp treatment included a body scrub, soothing massage and heavenly scalp massage. Afterwards my skin was refreshed and smooth, and despite choosing the energising aromatherapy oils during an initial smell test, I felt loose and relaxed, but later on sleepy.

AMBIENCE The heart of the spa - the area around the pool - is more utilitarian than luxurious, with white walls and simple furniture. The spa was relaxed, but on a busy day I’d want to leave the bustle of the poolside café for the cool, dark, and delicately-scented Relaxation Suite. It is reserved only for those having treatments, and has comfy loungers, free magazines and fruit-infused water.

FOOD The poolside café serves free tea and coffee, water and fruit juice, as well as a more substantial spa dining menu, created by the hotel’s Michelin-starred chef, Jeff Bland. Dishes include light salads, fish and fruity desserts, but they are pricey - from £8.95 for starters and £16.50 for main courses, so it’s probably not worth it unless it’s included in the price.

IN CROWD The spa goers were mostly hotel guests – mums and daughters, young couples and the odd man, probably there to use the gym, sauna, steam and pool. Most people spent their time swimming, dipping into the sauna or relaxing at the poolside tables in bathrobes reading the free newspapers provided.

WALLET WATCH The 85-minute Espa Holistic Back, Face and Scalp treatment costs £80. There are also various spa packages including the £130 Espa Pure Indulgence Day Experience, which includes an aromatherapy facial and either a detoxifying algae wrap or a restorative mud envelopment, and is not bad value as it also includes lunch. You can use the pool, gym, sauna and steam room at a cost of £15 per person. Personal training programmes cost £35 per hour.

NEED TO KNOW The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh (0131 622 8880; www.thebalmoralhotel.com). The spa is open Monday to Friday 6.30am-10pm, Saturday and Sunday 7am-10pm. For more information about city spas in Scotland, go to the city breaks section of the Visit Scotland websites.

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