USP The hotel’s spa offers all-Cornish Spiezia spa products grown and created in the county by Dr Mariano Spiezia and made at St Martins, Cornwall. Budock Vean has the added attraction of being set in an exquisitely beautiful valley in one of
Cornwall’s smartest areas. Anyone who has visited the world-famous neighbouring landscapes at Glendurgan or Trebah will be instantly at home in Budock Vean. All three are set in steep natural valleys running parallel to each other down to the Helford River.

AMBIENCE The journey to Budock Vean from Truro train station leads through verdant lanes sunk deep below banks of primroses and moss with lichen-encrusted trees creating a tunnel effect overhead.

The hotel is a large, privately-owned and traditional. It offers golf, boat rides, a swimming pool, tennis courts, snooker, fishing and a hearty cuisine where thoughts about restraint need to be put to one side.

My daughter, Miranda, and I explored the gardens in the gentle, damp mist which feeds Cornwall’s abundant vegetation. Gunnera, whose rhubarb-like leaves eventually tower over the tallest man, were just starting their journey heavenwards, and the scent of bluebells and wild garlic filled the air. The picturesque Helford River, bobbing with sailing boats, appears at the far end of the 65 acre garden. From the shoreline a steep climb took us into a beech wood where the leaves were just beginning to unfurl. Later, we drove a few miles to the National Seal Sanctuary and exchanged doleful, big-eyed glances with furry babies.

EXPERIENCE Budock Vean offers exclusive Cornish Spiezia products as well as British-based Elemis. Miranda and I choose the Head in Heavens Spiezia treatment for deep relaxation.

My therapist, Kelly, began by standing opposite me and helping me make some slow movements with my arms. She was charming but I was not convinced, even less so when she led me to the treatment couch and began such a gentle message that I began to feel that it was ineffective.

Then Kelly asked me to turn over onto my back while she continued to massage. Almost immediately I fell asleep – something I never normally do during a treatment. Then I needed to use the loo despite having gone before we began: my lymph system had been kick-started by the treatment. This gentle approach is unusually powerful. I walked out of the Kelly’s temple feeling light years younger.

Miranda, too, said she felt ultra relaxed for our journey home. I felt this was an exceptional treatment and I continued to feel its effects in the coming, busy week.

PRODUCTS I was intrigued to find Spiezia spa products grown and created in the county by Dr Mariano Spiezia and made at St Martins, Cornwall. I have had a love affair with anything Cornish since training as a journalist in Cornwall nearly 20 years ago when it was a far poorer, less developed place than its 21st century, post-Eden manifestation.

Spiezia tries to apply what it calls ‘made for life’ to every aspect of its operation from the hand made, natural, organic creams, balms and oils to the pretty, handmade recycled glass pots and jars they come in.

The products themselves are made from herbs, seaweeds and flowers being fused into olive oil and then pressed and filtered. Essential essences complete the picture and the result smells gentle and lovely.

FOOD Unashamedly traditional with vast portions and, sadly for vegetable enthusiasts like Miranda and me, more emphasis on meat and puddings than on greens. But their beef was melt-in-the-mouth delicious.

IN-CROWD Huge mixture of regulars from golfers and grandparents to grandchildren and a scattering of young professionals. All jolly, friendly and keen on making an event of meal times.

WALLET WATCH The Heads in Heaven treatment lasts one hour 25 minutes and costs £70. Overnight prices are very reasonable for what they include. The tariff per person per night includes bed, breakfast and five course dinner plus use of the golf and tennis courts and swimming pool and ranges from £76 in a standard room in low season to £123 for a superior room in high season

NEED TO KNOW Budock Vean Hotel, Helford Passage, Mawnan Smith, Nr Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 5LG (01326 250 288 ;www.budockvean.co.uk)

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