USP A wallet-lite weekend of culture and cures.

AMBIENCE The spa is immaculate and there are three thermal pools, separate-sex saunas, a steam room, spa bath, an indoor swimming pool and an outdoor pool for those who find the sulphuric waters too malodorous.

QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE The therapists were a professional mix of sturdy Hungarian matriarchs and Thai masseuses. It didn’t take long to work out that this wasn’t a candles-and-incense sort of spa. I was lying naked on a sheet of black plastic, the treatment room was sparse, its design influence possibly an abattoir. This was a full-body, mudpack treatment, Hungarian-style. “Serious” treatments, including physiotherapy, electrotherapy, oxygen and salt inhalation were available in the Seventies’ airport lounge-style spa. Other treatments were administered with great expertise by Hungarian therapists, and prices varied from £10 for a 20-minute foot or head-and-neck massage to £33 for a 75-minute shiatsu treatment. However, the therapists’ English is quite scratchy, so I wouldn’t want to try to explain a complicated medical history.

FOOD The buffet lunch was unremarkable, so we went into Budapest for dinner each night and had fantastic and cheap Hungarian dishes.

IN CROWD Convalescing Eastern and Central Europeans and Germans.

WALLET WATCH A three-night, half-board Spa Island Escape, including all treatments (aromatic massage, hydromassage, aromatic bath, an hour-long Thai massage, head-and- neck massage, a session with a personal trainer or a facial), return flights and transfers is from £399 per person. Contact Wellbeing Escapes on 0845 6026202; www.wellbeing escapes.co.uk. Malev Hungarian Airlines flies to Budapest; www.malev.com, 0870 9090577.

NEED TO KNOW Danubius Health Spa Resort, Margitsziget, Budapest (00-36-1-889 4700; www.danubiushotels.com/en/budapest-hotels/danubius-thermal-hotel-margitsziget-budapest)

Times recommends

• Croatia: the flashing blades of Korkcula
• The best stopovers en route to Australia
• Chernobyl offers a holiday in hell