Caroline Sylger Jones
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USP Not only is this a spruced up old-fashioned lido but it has a spa to boot. The pool is a delight to swim in and is overlooked by an outdoor Jacuzzi, an indoor steam room and sauna, and a café and restaurant where good food is served by personable staff.
Treatments on offer are genuinely holistic. Devised by ila, they use organically-sourced products including Lomi Lomi and maternity massage as well as inventive scrubs, wraps, facials and massages based on ayurvedic principles.
AMBIENCE The open-air swimming pool dates back to 1849, and has been sensitively and subtly modernised to offer a quaint and quirky feel in keeping with its history. A row of outdoor changing cubicles with wooden-fronted showers and colourful stripy curtains lines one side of the pool, there’s a traditional small terrace with green wrought-iron tables and pretty flower boxes, and the friendly, unpretentious staff wear embroidered smocks in a vibrant mid-blue.
Highlights indoors are the restaurant housed in a former Victorian viewing gallery with floor-to-ceiling windows, and in the spa, a wooden-floored boudoir with ornate mirrors and dressing tables and a light-flooded relaxation room. Decked out in cream with touches of deep pink and orange and fronted by large, wide windows, the room has a narrow wooden balcony for swimmer-watching, little tables and a traditional dresser for a hot water urn and herbal teas. On the same level you'll find 6 treatment rooms and shower-cum-changing cubicles.
QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE The pool is large enough to avoid lane rage and kept just cool enough so you can do proper lengths in comfort. It’s chlorinated, but levels are low. You won’t be able to lie flat on a rare hot day as there are no loungers outside, only chairs and tables, but you can do a spot of sunbathing while sitting in the open-air Jacuzzi, which is nicely elevated on its own wooden deck.
My favourite spot was a corner armchair in the relaxation room, where I sat with my feet up on a matching foot stool for quite some time sipping rose tea and dipping in and out of a novel. A CD featuring the voice of Ila’s founder, Denise Leicester, played over and over, though I never seemed to tire of her soothing and enchanting singing.
I had an exceptionally relaxing Ananda facial, adminsitered competently by Claire. I find the smell of ila products – particularly the rose oil – transporting, and half way through the extensive facial massage I blissed out and nodded off. My husband Tom had a Kundalini back massage, apparently the most popular treatment for men here, a detoxing and rebalancing treatment using light massage and chakra healing techniques. It was carried out by a highly attentive therapist, Jean-Paul, and left Tom feeling very calm.
The Lido doesn’t have the space for individual lockers, so you’re given a blue suit bag on arrival to store your clothes in, and asked to keep valuables in a locked-up cupboard which you then go back to if you need to get anything. It was a bit of a faff to start with, but after a de-stress swim we were happy to stay in our robes most of the day. Towels, robes and flip flops are provided, and there are shampoos and conditioners in the showers, though they are currently of the toxic variety, so if you care about such things, as I do, bring your own.
FOOD AND DRINK We enjoyed afternoon green tea, cappuccino and guinness and chocolate cake in the relaxed café and bar area, and little plates of wood-fired corn on the cob with hummous outdoors at dusk after our second long swim. Upstairs in the restaurant our lunchtime meal was delicious – a herby chopped salad with tahini dressing and flat breads, and perfectly tender scallops and lamb. There’s a full wine list, plenty of light meal options, and you can eat here in your robe if you so choose.
IN-CROWD The relaxed and personable atmosphere means you’ll feel comfy here whether you’re on your own or with a friend. You’ll find a mix of savvy locals having their daily swim or a lunchtime meeting, and visitors on spa days. The bar has a sophisticated but relaxed feel, so it’s popular in the evening.
WALLET WATCH
The basic day spa package is £95 and includes a one-hour ila spa treatment, use of the facilities from 9 am till 10 pm, breakfast, lunch and complimentary drinks throughout the day. A swim and use of the facilities for a 3-hour stretch is £15 for adults, £7.50 for children. Treatments start from £50 for a one-hour facial. Full membership is £40 a month, or £450 a year. Nibbles from £3, starters from £6, mains from £15.
NEED TO KNOW
The Lido, Oakfield Place, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 2BJ, UK (+44 117 933 9530; www.lidobristol.com) open daily from 7 am – 10 pm.
STAYING OVER
Bristol’s Hotel du Vin has teamed up with the Lido to offer a midweek wellbeing break for spa-seekers who want an overnight break. This stylish but relaxed boutique hotel is set in a restored sugar house a 20-minute walk or a 5-minute taxi ride from the Lido, and we loved its peaceful courtyard sitting area, moodily-lit lounge with comfy sofas and silver-topped bar. Our bedroom, Taittinger, was spacious and contemporary if a little lacking in natural light; the highlight of our stay was our exceptional evening meal, served by attentive staff in the elegant but relaxed French-style bistro. £225 includes one night’s accommodation from Sunday to Thursday, breakfast and dinner for two with a bottle of wine, a return taxi to the lido, use of the Lido facilities for two and one treatment each.
Contact the Hotel du Vin (0117 925 5577, www.hotelduvin.com/bristol).
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