USP Pity the poor Banyan Tree Mayakoba! It opened in March 2009 amidst headlines about the Mexican drugs violence, against the backdrop of the world recession and then, adding insult to injury, swine flu chose Mexico for its global debut.

But Mexico’s troubles make this a great time to go – you’ll have the place and its falling-over-backwards-to-help-you staff all to yourself, plus there are serious bargains to be had. And the reality is that the region is safe.

AMBIENCE The emphasis is on romance with a capital R – heck, the place even has a romance director, and there’s a "love menu" with ideas for how to create your own special, sexy moments. If you’re there alone you can still appreciate the sensuality of your surroundings – the motto is ‘low tech, high touch’. The Rainforest spa pavilion is a cave-like cocoon light years away from the bright Riviera Mayan sunshine outside.

EXPERIENCE Wet, wet and wet again. But then this is a pretend rainforest, so what did you expect? First the rain walk, along a corridor dotted with cool then warm showers; then ten minutes in a eucalyptus steam room; then ‘summer storm’, aka a shower with lights; then into the treatment room.

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Surely to goodness you can dry off in there: but no, while the therapist scrubs your pores yet more water pours down on you from an over-bed shower contraption reminiscent of a dentist’s examination room lights.

There’s lots of slightly tiresome groping around with sodden towels to preserve your modesty, and my other slight gripe was that I didn’t much like the feel of the bottle-green sarong I was expected to shower in (my bathing costume would have been fine).

By the time the hour-long scrub was done I was fantasising about being dry again. No chance of that, though: another shower beckoned, and then a dip in the vitality pool with its impressive, lipid-busting super-jet ‘water chairs’ designed to pummel your cellulite. Finally – you guessed it – one last shower. I’ve never been so happy to see a fluffy, dry towel in my life; but I did feel squeaky-clean, and surprisingly relaxed, as I pulled it gratefully around my shoulders.

FOOD Emphasis on modern Mexico with a twist – bean-filled corn pie with tomato and coriander was good, as was lime soup with chicken and tortilla and chocolate tamale with accompanying hot chocolate drink was to die for (calorific, though). Best meal of all was the amazing breakfast spread complete with burritos, tortillas and frijoles, which would easily keep you going until supper.

IN-CROWD Any crowd is a good crowd here, given the difficulties, but the place is aimed at the north American market and they hope to pull in the Mexico City cognoscenti before long.

WALLET WATCH Best current bargain is with Sovereign Luxury Travel, offering seven nights including daily breakfast and one spa treatment from £1,445 per person – saving a whacking £3,000 per couple. Includes flights from Gatwick to Cancun and private airport transfers. www.sovereign.com or call 0871 644 0227

NEED TO KNOW Banyan Tree Mayakoba, www.banyantree.com 0052 984 877 3688

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