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Like all the best hotels, the Excelsior in Dubrovnik has a rich history. You only have to look at the wall of fame next to the piano bar to get a sense of its 1960s, Yugoslav, heyday.

It remains the society hotel of Croatia, but wears its stardom lightly and without swagger. Perhaps that’s because less than 20 years ago it temporarily became the home to hundreds of refugees fleeing the Serbian army during the siege of Dubrovnik.

It’s hard to believe that the shocking news footage of that time unfolded around this elegant, quietly luxurious hotel, now into the second year of a complete refurbishment.

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All the rooms, even the cheapest, are spacious and comfortable, and the junior suites big enough to make you want to move in, what with the glorious sea views from the balconies.

Most rooms overlook the Adriatic to one side and Dubrovnik to the other, and there’s little more lovely than either especially in the evening when the lights come on.

The hotel’s crowning glory is downstairs where a peaceful, good sized pool – the centre piece of its spa – lies just indoors next to an open air terrace that gives directly onto the turquoise sea.

Outside there’s a ladder and a rope to mark off the bathing area, sun beds, parasols, a waiter and that’s it. Bliss.

Inside by the pool, things are somewhat posher. I fell asleep on one of the whicker beds set discreetly apart from each other.

The spa is extremely smart and well equipped, with a large steam room and sauna, and two Jacuzzis abutting the pool. There’s a wide range of therapies plus a hairdresser and fully staffed gym.

Dubrovnik and all its (now thankfully restored) medieval glories are a mere 5 minute walk away, but if you are at the hotel for more than a few days, the hotel’s bar and restaurants are low key and unpretensious.

The meals and breakfast are served overlooking the sea indoors or out, and if you want to try a new take on Croatia’s astonishing array of seafood, the hotel has a small but excellent sushi restaurant.

Tripadvisor: users give the hotel an average 4/5 out of 5 with most praising its location and views. The spa and pool come in for much admiration as do the rooms. Many also praise the hotel's restaurant, taverna rustica.

Need to know: Hotel Excelsior, Frana Supila 12, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia. Double rooms with a sea view start from €235, an executive suite starts at €580- €830 - all include breakfast.

Best thing: The downstairs pool and beach area

Worst thing: It feels misleadingly “corporate” on arrival

Access: wheel chair access throughout

Food: 9 out of 10

Service: 10 out of 10

Room: 10 out of 10

Value: 8 out of 10

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