Emma Tucker
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It’s fair to say that the Lesic Dimitri Palace is unlike any hotel I have ever stayed in. For a start, it’s tricky to find, tucked away in the narrow, ancient streets of Korcula Old Town, on the Adriatic’s sixth biggest island.
It’s also truly “boutique” in that there are just six apartments, and none of the usual hotel trappings - no central lobby, and no restaurant (one is planned for next year, as well as a spa. For now a delicious local breakfast is served in your room.)
Moreover, the enthusiastic staff, particularly Toni Lozica, the concierge, will ensure that your every need, however “boutique,” is met.
This could be a trip on the hotel’s handsome sailing boat, an island tour, tickets to hear a group of local Klapa (a capella) singers or even, in my case, a visit to the supermarket.
(I needed to buy a particular type of Turkish coffee but only knew the Serbian brand name. Unphased, Toni marched me down to the local shop to pick out the Croatian equivalent and a few other delicacies too.)
The apartments are themed according to the travels of Marco Polo whom locals claim was born in Korcula. Thus, India, China, Ceylon etc and Arabia, the apartment in which we stayed.
The rooms are quirky yet luxurious. Arabia had a tent-like roof and was decorated with Moorish patterns and drapes of white linen.
The soaps and bath gels were all locally sourced (lots of lovely lavender) and the mini-bar was stuffed with interesting Korculan delicacies like sugared almonds, figs, and herb-flavoured brandies.
The bath was vast and the shower stood alone, tardis-like, at the bedroom end of the apartment.
Such are the planning restrictions on Korcula (and thank goodness) that the windows in the apartments are small, in keeping with the original building - a combination of an eighteenth century Bishop’s palace and five medieval cottages.
But their views are exquisite.
From one window we looked over Korcula’s 15th century cathedral, and a jumble of red roofs. From another we could see the pretty old harbour and sparkling Adriatic. Small wonder that we didn’t once go near the room’s flat screen television.
From the apartments you step straight into the pretty limestone streets of the town, a beguiling mix of Renaissance and Gothic architecture, and packed with all sorts of curiosities.
If you fancy staying in, the hotel has two resident Thai masseuses, (possibly the only Thais living in Croatia) who give soothing hour long massages. When we were there they administered to a group of American cyclists who were passing through Korcula on a bicycling holiday.
Need to know: Lešić Dimitri Palace, PO Box 79, Don Pavla Poše 1-6 Korčula, 20260 Croatia - apartments range from €180-595 during the low season, and from €295-995 during the peak season.
Best thing: the personal approach
Worst thing: not all apartments have outside space
Food: breakfast scored 9 out of 10 – simple, fresh and local
Service: 10 out of 10
Room: 9 out of 10
Value: 10 out of 10
Tripadvisor.co.uk - there is only one review posted and it gives the hotel 5 stars, highlighting, like me, the very personal service of the dedicated local staff.
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