David Wadmore
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The former home of the Thurn-Taxis family, a 17th Century mansion in a forest one hour from Prague, was once host to lavish parties, hunting weekends and the aristocractic hedonism of the late 19th century.
Now it proclaims itself as Europe’s first "eco-chic" hotel.
It is the owners’ declared intent "to help our guests towards their highest personal potential by providing an environment that is balanced body, mind and spirit".
The arrival at Chateau Mcely (pronounced M’ts-elly) was fine. We swept into the manicured drive past the carefully placed sheep (strictly sculptural) and within minutes we were sipping a welcoming herbal drink, concocted by co-owner Jim Cusumano in his basement Alchymist Bar.
Evidently the herbs were gathered in the local area (not sure if it required virgins, bats or eye of newt as part of the recipe). No matter, it had a superb, refreshing, taste and I would have gladly bought a crate of it on the spot.
The bedroom was massive. An expansive seating area, enormous bed and the sort of 18th Century wardrobe that would be declared a business hotel in Japan . The decorations suited the period, the chairs sufficiently ornate, although my attention was drawn to the modern flat-screen TV perched on a table made from a lump of tree trunk.
Showing (on a continuous loop), was an edition of Grand Designs. No, not exactly the TV programme that features St Kevin, but here were the owners talking us through the whole Mcely project. And, my word, this is a Project.
Owner Jim is an ex-Silicon Valley entrepreneur. He has brought more than a touch of the hippy-green-alternative ethos, combined it with American business know-how and the skill of his property developer wife Inez to set up this ambitious all-consuming scheme.
It was Slovakia-born Inez who first found the hotel when acting as an agent for an American mutual friend. The friend didn’t like it, but Inez had fallen in love with the half-ruined chateau whose only guests for years had been birds and creatures from the neighbouring St Georges forest. Luckily Jim had sold his American businesses and was looking for a project. They became partners in every sense.
The hotel is lavishly decorated, erring on the side of ostentatious at every opportunity. The bedrooms each have their own character, the library a haven of peace and packed with books that beg to be read. The restaurant serves fresh food with local ingredients. You really get the sense that everyone concerned is making an effort to be good and worthy.
So the least I could do was make an effort and arrive on time for breakfast. That paid dividends when I ordered their special Princess Armelie porridge. This was a splendid cake of oats and fruit with honey and powdered chocolate.
I had to follow breakfast with a good lie down. Fortunately, it was in a darkened room with soothing music and the most wonderful relaxing back massage.
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