Which walks have we missed? Which is your favourite? Post your thoughts
below
Map
of the walk locations
"There is something about walking,” wrote Rousseau, “that stimulates and
enlivens my thoughts. When I sit in one place, I can hardly think at all; my
body has to be on the move to set my mind going.” We wanted to set your
minds going with ideas for glorious places to walk: there are thousands in
Britain and we’re offering 30 for starters, walks chosen by our writers
because they love them and want us to love them too.
Andrew Motion returns to the wild, wide sweep of Holkham beach in Norfolk,
“dead flat and scrubbed almost white by the wind”, finding his childhood
haunt now “one of the deep pleasures of middle age”; Matthew Parris strides
across Lathkil Dale in his beloved Derbyshire; and in our city
walks special, Simon Jenkins describes “the greatest walk in London” –
12 miles from Kew Gardens through Richmond Park “past marsh, oak and deer”
to the “quiet façade” of Syon House across the river.
There are walks for all tastes and energy levels: a bracing up and down along
the Cornish coast with lunch at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant, a wander
through Christopher Robin’s “Enchanted Place” in Ashdown Forest or, or if
you like city
walks, a stroll through the Lanes of Brighton; or a circuit of York’s
magnificent city walls. There are buzzards, red deer and mountain hares to
see in the Cairngorms; hen harriers and short eared owls on one of Richard
Mabey’s favourite routes through the swamps and marshes of the Suffolk
coast.
You can check out the statue of Dr Johnson’s beloved cat Hodge on Joanna
Trollope’s tour from the South Bank to the Trafalgar Square, and join Ian
Rankin on his favourite Edinburgh walk. Britain is bursting with life as
June opens her doors: elderflower and flag iris blooming, harebell,
stitchwort and buttercups in the meadows, cuckoos calling, swallows and
swifts scything through the summer evening sky. And the TV is pants, so get
walking.
All map references are from the OS Explorer series
1 Holkham Beach - 4 miles, 2 hrs - Grade: Easy - Map: OS 251
SINCE I was a child, the north Norfolk coast has been for holidays and at
Holkham I discovered that “we’re going for a walk” could mean something
amazing, writes Andrew Motion. Now I take my own children there. We
turn off the A49 just to the west of Wells-next-the-Sea, opposite the
entrance to Holkham Hall, and bounce down a track made of mud and sand. How
many others have had the same idea? Too many, of course: their cars are
parked in blunt rows, and each is disgorging hundreds of nuisances. But it
doesn’t matter. Just beyond the pine trees ahead, where the land struggles
into a ridge of dunes, the sky opens so enormously that it can absorb more
or less anything.
It’s the mixtures that feel so bewitching. First the mud and stone giving way
to sand, then the sand mingling with the pine-whiff and alligator-roots,
then the colossal sweep of the beach – dead flat and scrubbed almost white
by the wind except where a gingery stream dribbles through the centre and
out to sea. It’s rare to get such openness in England: the sky towering, the
horizon so remote that I can trace the curve of the earth. Constable catches
it in his cloud scenes, but he was further south and inland, and there’s
always a sense of trees and rooftops lying just beyond the edge of the
frame. Here there is pure vacancy: just wind and bleached light, and
ourselves rushing forward like spaniels, tracking a better version of
everything we were when we arrived. Do we find it? Yes, back in the car a
few hours later, the evidence is in my pocket: razor clam shells, curiosity
pebbles, a fragment of nursery-blue eggshell. We’ll come back again next
year.
2 Chilterns - 7 miles, 3 hrs - Grade: Moderate - Map: OS 171
START at the White Hart at North End, turn SE along the minor road towards
Turville Heath. You’ re on the Chiltern plateau here, and coombes and
queer-shaped meadows slope off in all directions, writes Richard Mabey.
At Turville Heath you pass through an extraordinary avenue of limes – not
common limes, but pollards of our small-leaved native, planted here in 1740.
Follow signs to Turville where the Bull & Butcher (01491 638283) is
available for half-time refreshments. A mile west, turn right up a small
lane. Time it for mid-afternoon and you may see the roosting display of up
to 100 kites. Continue north through Ibstone, and take the footpath left
opposite the Fox pub. Drop down, past the late John Paul Getty’s ornate
cricket pitch, set in the middle of the beech woods that were battered in
the 1990 hurricane, but are recovering well. A mile further southwest on the
path brings you back to North End.
3 Lathkil Dale -10.5 miles, 5 hrs - Grade: Moderate - Map: OL24
FROM THE village of Youlgreave, climb Moor Lane to the hilltop car park where
this circular walk begins, writes Matthew Parris. A path from the
near-by road junction leads through meadows, a copse and down magnificent
grassy slopes into a steep limestone gorge. Bear right to the River Lathkil
footbridge. For a wooded, downriver walk (100-140 mins) turn right, passing
finally beneath Over Haddon, where a metalled road reaches the river at a
footbridge. Cross and climb a path shortcutting straight back to your car;
or climb the road to a beautifully situated pub, the Lathkil Hotel (01629
814706), with open fire, food and accommodation; or continue downriver to
Alport, crossing a road and walking up the River Bradford to Youlgreave
where a friendly pub, the George Hotel, offers all-day meals.
For an upriver walk of similar length turn left and follow the ravine, passing
the Lathkil’s cave source, until a road crosses. Left into Monyash, a pretty
limestone village where the Bull’s Head serves food all day. Returning,
skirt the church and find the track off left as the road bends right; track
and path lead through One Ash Grange and into the steep limestone gorge
mentioned at the start; then back up to the car park. I never tire of this
walk. It is stiff, steep in parts, and can be slippery; but viable for any
fit 7 to 77-year-old.
4 Uffington, Oxon - 5 miles, 2 hrs - Grade: Easy - Map: OS 170
FOR a magnificent ramble on southern England’s ancient uplands, start at the
National Trust car park at Uffington Castle, six miles west of Wantage,
writes Christina Hardyment. From there you see the sinewy, flamboyant
4,000-year-old White Horse. It was created from 10ft-wide trenches curved
into the sur-real equine shape and dug out to a depth of 2ft or 3ft, then
filled with white chalk, and is 365ft long. Follow the track from the car
park up to Uffington Castle, an enormous Iron Age fort built in about 700BC
by the Dobunni tribe.
It is worth walking around the ramparts for the fine views. Then turn west
along the Ridgeway, the ancient track that links the Icknield Way with
Avebury. After about a mile and half, take the right-hand path into a
magnificent beech grove where four monoliths guard Wayland’s Smithy, a
double decker barrow that has a 1300BC burial chamber built on top of one
dating from 3700BC. Shake off its weird aura with a brisk downhill walk on
the track to Compton Beauchamp. Take the footpath which starts a little east
along the B4507 to Woolstone, where the White Horse pub (01367 820726)
offers Arkells ales, roaring fires and good food. Return along the lane to
the car park.
5 Western Argyll - 3 miles, 1½hrs - Grade: Moderate - Map: OS 81/64
ON THE north shore of West Loch Tarbert in Argyll, above Torinturk, is an
ancient hill fort, in Gaelic Dun a’coin duibh, “the hill of the black dog”,
after the beast, half-wolf, that defended it in legend, writes Ben
McIntyre. To the east, you look towards the fishing village of Tarbert;
to the south, across the loch, are the hills of Kintyre and, beyond, the
peaks of Arran, snow-covered in winter; to the north lie the forested moors
of South Knapdale.
The view to the west is why you make the climb: in the near distance lie the
Inner Hebridean islands of Gigha, Islay and Jura; beyond, the Mull of
Kintyre and Ireland. There are few better views in Britain, and though I
have taken this walk half a dozen times a year since I was 6, I have never
seen anyone there. The path to the fort, a four-mile circuit, is accessible
all year round. Park behind Torinturk, six miles towards Kilberry from
Tarbert. At first you climb gently along the hillside to the clearing in
Achaglachgach Forest known as the Giant’s Grave, three ancient burial
cairns. The last stage, to the top of the hill and the fort, is extremely
steep.
6 Richmond Park - A few miles, a few hours - Grade: Moderate - Map: OS
277
EARLY ON I developed a dislike of pieces of space enclosed and overorganised,
sometimes pretending to be wild, writes A. S. Byatt. But I have come
to make an exception for Richmond Park. I love its variety of landscapes –
small woods, rough open rides with bracken, brooks with lines of archetypal
willows lovely shapes leafless in winter. There are large herds of both red
deer and the delicate fallow deer, introduced by Charles I. There are rooks
and jackdaws and jays and woodpeckers, green and great spotted, as well as
parakeets from northern India. You can walk around the Pen Ponds and see the
water birds, both resident and in passage, swans, geese and ducks. You can
stand on the mound near Pembroke Lodge (where Bertrand Russell grew up) and
see St Paul’s, 12 miles away. The sense of the separation of the park from
the city and its intimate relation with it is complicated and easy – both
have been there so long.
7 Walberswick, Suffolk - 2.5 miles, 1 hr - Grade:Moderate - Map: OS 231
SEA and land merge in East Anglia. Come here for the soft coast that can’t
make up its mind; for the bird-thronged marshes, the head-high reeds and a
pearly lagoonish light, writes Simon Barnes. Walk away from
Walberswick at the mouth of the Blyth river, descend into the reedbeds
between the village and the sea, and walk south. Keep the main channel on
your left, and walk towards the ancient wind pump. Teal and mallards
crisscross the vast Suffolk sky. Last time I was here I saw a little egret.
At the wind pump, loop round to the sea wall, a fat shingle-bank. Walk along
the top: it’s quite hard going, but you get great views across the reeds and
over the sea. It’s a decent hour’s walk, and it brings you back to The Bell
at Walberswick.
8 Burford, Cotswolds - 5 miles, 3 hrs - Grade: Easy - Map: OL 45
THE spire of the church in Burford is your first landmark, writes Christina
Hardyment. Go past the church to the high street. Turn right and cross
the bridge over the Windrush. Follow the road’s right fork (A361). Just
after Walnut Row a footpath to the right passes through some stiles, then
turns sharp left through a stile into Fulbrook. Turn right at the war
memorial, then take an uphill lane signed “Swinbrook”. After nearly a mile,
take a footpath signed to Widford down a steep coombe to St Oswald’s church;
then turn left to Swinford. The path comes out in the churchyard. In the
lane east of the church, turn left and head uphill back to Burford. When you
reach the Widford sign, go down the combe again, but this time turn right
below St Oswald’s and follow the path to Widford and a bridge over the
Windrush. Turn right again and after 100yds take a path down to the river.
The path joins a lane into the back of Burford.
9 Braemar, Highlands - 4 miles, 3 hrs - Grade: Moderate - Map: OS 404
BRAEMAR sits more than 1,000ft (300m) up in the Cairngorms, trapped at the end
of the valley where the Dee does a right-angle bend to join up with Clunie
Water, writes Sally Varlow. Park in the village, cross the A93 from
St Margaret’s Church, turn left into Hillside Drive and walk 300 yards to a
stile. From here two trails are waymarked upwards. Red is short and steep to
Creag Choinnich; yellow, more family-friendly, circles the Creag, rising
through larch woods to a broad track much-loved by Queen Victoria. Turn left
to the Lion’s Face viewpoint, zigzag down through forest to the river (don’t
cross the road) and left towards Braemar Castle. Now climb the steep slope
to “the Cromlins” viewpoint and down round the base of Creag Choinnich.
10 Hembury Fort, Devon - 1 mile, 45 min - Grade: Easy - Map: OS 125
SHADOWED by ancient beeches, their gnarled roots twisting out of the ground,
Hembury Fort is a magical place to take children, writes Lucy Pinney.
To reach it, take the A373 out of Honiton towards Cullompton. Just over the
brow of the hill, turn sharp right for Dunkeswell. Less than half a mile
farther, park in the small lay-by on the left. Then cross the road into the
trees. We always walk 50 yards, turn right beside a rampart, and then stroll
in a gentle, wide oval, gradually returning to the car after an hour.
Hembury Fort is an Iron Age fort and a late Stone Age causewayed camp, and
there are steep ramparts all the way round for children and dogs to slide
down. (Countless trousers have been destroyed on this walk.) There are
drifts of leaves to throw and hide in, homemade rope swings, and, in the
centre, a wide plateau where you can gaze out over the surrounding pink and
green fields. A peaceful, sheltered place where strange fungi glisten and
bloom, the fort is owned by John Gundry, a kindly local who doesn’t object
to walkers.
11 Whernside, Yorkshire - 11 miles, 3 hrs plus - Grade: Moderate - Map:
OS OL2
I ONCE scrambled up the daunting Three Peaks – Pen-y-ghent, Whernside,
Ingleborough) – in a day, writes Richard Morrison. If you
complete this 26-mile trek within 12 hours, you get a small badge – and
weeks of blisters. I recommend Whernside, because (although it is the
highest) the track leading up to it is not desperately steep. Park at
Ribblehead, or take the Settle-Carlisle railway to Ribblehead Station (the
Station Inn (01524 241274) is excellent). Follow the track towards the
towering 24 arches of the mighty Ribblehead viaduct and then alongside the
railway until a bridge takes you to the stony path leading to the summit.
From there, you can see for ever. Follow the ridge until another path zooms
you down through fields and farms to Chapel-le-Dale where, ideally, your
chauffeur should meet you. Otherwise you have to trudge to Ribblehead. Allow
three hours; more if you end up carrying your children. As you will.
12 Hampshire-Sussex - 3 miles, 2 hrs - Grade: Moderate - Map: OS 120
THE circular, three-mile track to the top of the Downs from Stoughton, on the
Hampshire-West Sussex borders, combines flat farmland with calf-stretching
slopes, woodland intimacy with some of the widest and finest views in
England and more natural history and historical interest than a lifetime
could absorb, writes Brian Clarke. It begins near a Saxon church and
reaches a chain of burial mounds 3,000 years old. It encompasses the
habitats of 60 species of breeding birds, 50 species of butterflies and 200
species of wild flowers. Park by the village, close to the church. Leave the
Hare and Hounds on your left and 200 yards beyond take the footpath
signposted right, through the entrance to a farm. Follow this track straight
to the top of the hill. Where four paths cross on the edge of the woods,
take the path to the right and follow it past the summit to the T-junction
with another path and a fence. Turn right, back down to the village. Real
ales and pub food at the Hare and Hounds in Stoughton or the Barley Mow in
Walderton.
13 Broughton Castle - 1 mile, 1 hr - Grade: Easy - Map: OS 191
YOU can approach Broughton Castle in Oxfordshire from the village, walking up
the walled path over the river and through the churchyard of St Mary’s to
the turreted entrance and the romantic manor house with its secretive
mullioned windows, ironstone walls and “Midsummer night’s dream of a
garden,” writes Jane Wheatley. Or come down through the park of
fat sheep and oaks, and walk beside the glassy moat, which reflects the
walls of the castle and the clouds. www.broughtoncastle.com
01295 276070
14 Suffolk Coast - 5 miles, 2.5 hrs - Grade: Moderate - Map: OS 231
THIS is a circular walk taking in the full mix of heath, marsh and pinewood
habitats of the Suffolk coast – and some tasty birds, too, if you are lucky, writes
Richard Mabey. Start in the village of Eastbridge, two miles north of
Leiston. There is parking by the Eel’s Foot. Ponder the mandala of this most
inscrutable of pub names (an eel dancing in an old boot) as you walk due
south along the lane for 200 yards. Take the footpath on the left, which
takes you east towards “The Sluice” and the North Sea. For about a
mile-and-a-half you pass between the billowing reedbeds of the Royal Society
for the Protection of Birds’ Minsmere reserve on your left, and the grazing
marshes stretching out towards Sizewell nuclear power station on your right.
Look out for marsh harriers floating over the reeds, and the buoyant soarings
of hen harriers and short-eared owls. At the sea, turn left along the
shingle beach for about a mile, passing a public hide overlooking the
reserve. Pause and listen for the bells of Dunwich sub mare, swallowed by
the sea (rising even then) in the Middle Ages. Go on, of course you can hear
them. At the beginning of Dunwich Cliffs, with its row of cottages, turn
left (west) along a National Trust footpath that winds between a wonderfully
tangled mix of birchwoods and reedswamp. Watch out for bitterns – dumpy,
brown herons – especially late afternoon. Take a short detour right to look
over the vast heather sweeps of Dunwich Heath and look for Dartford
warblers, with red-rimmed eyes, flirting on gorse tops. Get back to the main
track, and after one mile turn left at a trackway T-junction. Follow this
southwest for one mile, ignoring the lane which you cross straight over.
Look out for herds of deer in the field on either side, and for spectacular
views of the woods and marshes sweeping down to the coast. Join the road
south back to Eastbridge.
15 Winnie-the-Pooh Walk - 4 miles, 2 hrs - Grade: Easy -Map: OS 18
PARK at Gill’s Lap (just south of Hartfield, East Sussex, where the road from
Coleman’s Hatch meets the B2026) at the top of the 6,200-acre Ashdown
Forest, head north along the grassy firebreak and towards the clump of pines
that Christopher Robin called “The Enchanted Place,” writes
Julian Rollins. Turn left down a narrow ride, which brings you to the
Lone Pine. A short steep section brings you down to another firebreak, where
you turn right and up around the top of the hill to a memorial to A. A.
Milne and his illustrator Ernest H. Shepard. Turn left here and follow the
wide ride downhill to the stream in the valley bottom. Pick up twigs as you
descend; you’ll need them at Pooh Sticks Bridge.
16 Gower Peninsula - 3 miles, 2½hrs - Grade: Easy - Map: OS 164
THE three-mile crescent of Rhossili beach is glorious walking. Easiest access
is from Rhossili village, at the southern end of the beach, writes Oliver
Tickell. The one-hour option is the easy walk to Worms Head. At the tip
of the peninsula, you can scramble down to the rock pools before returning
to warm up in the friendly café. For a 2½hr hike, head north along the beach
(steps down by the cafe) or over the Rhossili Downs. The high path offers
great views but involves a steep climb, and the descent takes you through an
unlovely caravan park by the beach. The easier mid-level route is closer to
the sea.
17 Monsal Dale, Derbyshire - 6 miles, 3 hrs - Grade: Easy - Map: OS
OL24
OF all the Derbyshire landscapes, Monsal Dale is arguably the most beautiful, writes
Mark Cocker. The River Wye performs a sinuous bend through one of the
deepest portions of the valley and dense woodland sweeps upwards on either
side. Start from the car park at the valley’s eastern end and walk upstream
along the broad, clear trail. Stiles prevent wheelchair access but the
gentle gradient accommodates all abilities. The glorious cascade over the
weir is a natural break and a great spot to watch for dippers feeding among
the rocks. At the railway viaduct there is a steep climb up to the Monsal
Head Hotel (01629 640250). Those who make the effort will be rewarded with
spectacular views and the hotel’s huge menu, real ales and log fire.
18 Mortimer Trail - 11 miles, 4-5hrs - Grade: Easy -Map: OS 203
THE Mortimer Trail runs from Ludlow, Shropshire, through 30 miles of some of
the deepest country in Britain. Aymestrey to Titley is 11 miles, two big
hills, fine trees and a pub at each end, writes Sam Llewellyn. Take
the A4110 north across the bridge by the Riverside Inn at Aymestrey. Walk
down the first turning on the left to Ballsgate Common. Watch out for
waymarks directing you across a field to Sned Wood. Follow the track between
the wood and the river. Cross the crystal Lugg at Lyepole Bridge, then right
before Covenhope Farm. The way goes up now, on to Shobdon Hill and through a
splendid avenue of oaks.
Follow the waymarks to Byton Common. Descend, looking right to the valley of
the Upper Lugg, and the hills of Radnorshire crowded like eggs in a basket.
From Byton Hand, climb the steps and march along a green lane between
crab-apple hedges up Wapley Hill. At the top, under the ramparts, the trail
descends steeply to Stansbatch and on to Titley and the brilliant Stagg
(01544 230221), the first pub in Britain to be awarded a Michelin star.
19 South West Coastal Path - 6 miles, 3 hrs - Grade: Easy -Map: OS 106
FACING the sea on the path just above the sandy bay of Mawgan Porth you can
turn right (east) and trek 11 miles or so to Padstow or right (west) and
head six miles to Newquay’s Tolcarne Beach, writes Nick Wyke.
Steep ascents are followed by steep descents. When you see the little wooden
sign for Bre-Pen farm shop, you can take a slight diversion inland to pause
for a cup of tea. Having crossed mossy streams and walked another mile or so
along the edge of farmland, the long stretch of sand at Watergate Bay offers
another pit stop – for breakfast if you set out early and you’re there
before 10.30am – or lunch at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant. Climb back
up above the beach from the steps near the car park entrance to Fifteen and
after another hour you will be able to see the bungalows skirting Newquay.
Take your pick of beaches. The main one is awash with surfers and Tolcarne
Beach has the ultra-green Venus café: its mission is to be the UK’s greenest
beach café and shop operator.
20 Lanty’s Tarn - 4 miles, 2-3 hrs - Grade: Moderate - Map: OS
OL5
YOU will be breathless by the time you reach Lanty’s Tarn, but the view
of Ullswater makes it worthwhile, writes Mary Welsh. Start the walk
at the car park at Glenridding. Head for the main road and go right and
right again in front of shops. At the Y-junction the left branch carries on
to a waymarked gate, opposite a cottage. It leads to a footbridge and a
gate, where you stroll right to start the real fell-walking. Climb the
pitched way, through alders, and on up the zigzagging path. Eventually, the
path levels and beyond a gate lies the tree-girt tarn. Just beyond the small
dam you step out, right, on a rising path over the fell slopes to a stile on
the horizon. Beyond, descend diagonally to come beside walled woodland.
Stroll on to join a pitched track and drop down to cross Mires Beck. Bear
left and walk along a terraced path to cross a disused leat and an iron
bridge, spanning Red Tarn Beck. Walk along the gravelled way through old
mine buildings. Follow the road back to Glenridding and the Traveller’s
Rest.
Browse
travel offers at Times Selects
One of the most stunning walks has to be the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, 186 miles long which can be enjoyed in shorter treks over many years. Inland is the Landsker trail along the historic Knights Way passing Castel Coch now owned by bluestonewales.
Pamela, Narberth, Wales
re the chilter walk found remains of white hart, this walk takes in a lot of tarmac lanes, not to easy to follow this route from the directions given, easy walk but a couple of steep inclines. the red kites were great, bull and butcher was having a bad day,
steve, dunstable, uk
see above re Mathew Paris and dale walk-
a nice walk but this one is better -further north in Derbyshire,starts Hope Valley.Start Bamford -leave car on recreation ground car park -along small road to Thornhill,right up track,through Thornhill,up side Win Hill to top-stop on the pimple,get the views and wind,along ridge to Hope Cross,drop through pine woods across river then road,up past outdoor centre,bear right,keep wall on left -and this is the gem-after say half mile,hop over wall,walk twenty yards-stunning view of Derwent Dam wall,water teeming over when I last went. Back to track,on across nice grassy ridge,drop though farmyard and right back along side Ladybower,across the two viaducts -bit of a slog but tea awaits at Yorkshire Bridge Inn,book your table for the evening meal-then across top Ladybower Dam wall,left down and along the old miners railway track-now grassed over and mecifully flat for you are nearly there,left at end track and on to car in park ,I have others!!
robin cartwright, london, uk
As a Forester, having lived and worked in South Africa all my life, I took time on one of my holidays to the UK to walk a section of the Cornwall Coast Path. This was way back in July 1992. Starting at St Ives, I spent five days walking around the Land's End Peninsula to Penzance.
I shall never forget the striking difference between the north and south coasts, temperature wise, geologically and botanically. A walk I would recommend to anyone.
Dave, Knysna, South Africa,
Re. the Chilterns walk:
This is our locality, just to let you know the White Hart closed about 5 years ago & there's no remnant of a pub sign now, the place to start from (from the Turville end of the village) is the second house on the left.
Yvonne, Nr. Henley on Thames,
How can you leave out Bosherston lilyponds to Stackpole quay in pembrokeshire! The best walk in the world!
Start with a gentle meander around, and accross the lily ponds coming out onto Broadhaven south beach... then head up the coast path over the cliffs until you come down to the jewel of a beach that is barafundel.. then a steep climb up some steps and accross the cliffs and down to stackpole quay which is a sweet little harbour, and the boathouse tea rooms for a well deserved rest, (the food is brilliant and they are licenced) the walk should take around 2 hours.
Hannah , Melbourne , Australia
May I recommend The Cotswold Way through Gloucestershire too? It has just been made a National Trail, see http://www.soglos.com/sport-outdoor/27258/Walk-this-way for more information.
Travel Mickey, Gloucestershire, UK