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From the top of the chairlift, La Clusaz’s fearsome Mur Edgar black run looked no less formidable in its grassy state, dotted with wild flowers, than it would on skis: although perhaps it was the paragilder strapped to my back, and not the gradient, that was making my heart pound.
The paraglider was Marc – there to instruct me on my first tandem paraglide. Behind him a 30-foot stretch of nylon laid out on the ground. After a briefing of less than a minute - “lean forward and start running” - I did just that, and before I knew it, my legs were treading air.
What surprised me was the smoothness of our take-off, the speed at which we ascended and the silence. To get a view like this, you’d normally have to put up with the hum of a motor, but under sail it was blissfully quiet.
The fertile green valleys stretched out infront of us, dotted with picture-postcard wooden chalets and caramel-coloured cows jangling bells as they grazed. On the horizon snow-capped mountains reminded me of the area’s winter skiing prowess, crowned by the jagged silouhette of Mont Blanc.
It must be the closest feeling to flying – the weightlessness, the serenity and the acrobatics. Marc took me closer to buildings and rivers along the Aravis valley as he pointed them out and gently spiralled me in the thermals. Great fun – but a little nauseating for the motion-sick prone like myself – Marc soon realised this and steadied the cork-screwing.
We soared and chatted for 20 mintutes, gently dropping from the take-off point at the top of Cret du Loup, to a broad green field just outside La Clusaz. The landing was equally effortless: I was told to literally “hit the ground running” and after that come steadily to a halt.
I’d like to say the experience improved my adrenalin junkie kudos, but there’s little bravery required – the take-off and landing were smooth, Marc did all the work, and all I had to do was enjoy the view.
It was a similar experience later that evening when I took off in one of the balloons taking part in Le Grand Bornand’s balloon festival.
La Grand Bornand is another ski resort in the Aravis valley, which in summer turns its attention to a host of wholesome pursuits like Nordic walking (hiking with poles), mountain biking, paragliding and hot air ballooning.
My American pilot did all the work while I cowered in the basket as the temperature dropped and we slowly became level with Mont Blanc – it was much higher than I’d expected, and more scary than the paragliding. I imagine this was because I was without the security-blanket feel of a harness, and also unnerved by my pilot's maniacal desire to get higher than his rivals.
I was happier when we got closer to the ground, at one point skimming the long grass of a meadow with a group of children running and giggling after us. After another smooth landing I was relieved to be back on solid ground, but the next morning, when I watched the balloons take off again on a sunrise flight, I longed to be back in one.
Need to know
How to get there
Le Grand Bornand is about 45-minutes by car from Geneva airport. EasyJet offers flights to Geneva from Belfast, Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Gatwick, Luton, Stansted, Manchester and Newcastle. Also see British Airways and Swiss for flights.
Where to stay
The two-star Hotel Le Vermont offers pristine accommodation from £60 a night in sweet chalet-style rooms with televisions and some with balconies. The hotel has a swimming pool, sauna, hot tub with mountain views and does an excellent hearty breakfast as well as bar snacks throughout the day.
Where to eat
L'Hysope (tel. 00 33 4 50 02 29 87) is one of Le Grand Bornand's best restaurants, serving unusual variations on French cuisine with exquisite presentation. Alternatives for a more hearty alpine (and cheaper) meal is A la Ferme du Pepe (tel. 00 33 4 50 02 76 63) or Les Frasses Jacquier (tel. 00 33 6 80 82 32 32), which both do excellent versions of the regional speciality tartiflette, a cheese and potato dish made with the famous alpine cheese, Reblochon.
What to do
Paragliding flights in La Clusaz start at £36 with S en Ciel. Book at the tourism office in Place de l’Eglise, La Clusaz (tel. 00 33 4 50 32 65 00)
To take a hot air balloon flight in Le Grand Bornand contact Skivol (+ 33 683 97 53 26; contact@skivol.com). They offer one-hour flights from May to September for €250 per person.
There's also an excellent forest adventure park in Le Grand Bornand called La Foret des Dodes, which costs from €15 for adults and €13 for kids under 18. It offers a series of high ropes challenges, zip wires, and even a bicycle ride along a tight rope.
For more information on Outdoor Aravis email infos@aravis.com or visit www.aravis.com; tel: 00 33 4 50 02 38 03
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