When people want an African mountain to climb most opt for the tourist slog up Kilimanjaro with its crowded summit and altitude sickness-inducing rushed itineraries.

If you’re not so fussed about bagging Africa’s highest peak and want a real taste of snow and ice mountaineering, then consider a winter ascent of Morocco’s Jebel Toubkal.

Toubkal in the Berber dialect translates to “pastures view”, as the nomadic herders used to climb the peaks of the massif to get the best areas of grazing for their flocks.

At 4,167m, Jebel Toubkal is the highest point in North Africa and commands spectacular view of the Anti-Atlas, Sahara and the Atlantic.

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Flying into Marrakech we were driven around 70km to the mountain village of Imlil (1,790m). It is literally the end of the road. From there, our bags were loaded onto mules whilst we proceeded on foot for an hour to the next village Aremd (1,900m).

Normally the snowline is around 3,000m, but with the heaviest snowfall in 15 years, even at this low altitude the snow was thick on the ground. The next day we made it to base-camp, the French Alpine Club refuge at Neltner (3,207m) where guides Youseff and Khalid introduced the novices in our group to using their crampons and ice axes.

Although we'd intended to climb Toubkal’s sister peak, Ounakrim (4,088m) the next day, unpredictable weather forced Youseff to change plans and go for the main peak if we woke to clear conditions.

Sleeping in a dorm of ten, the cacophony of snores was only drowned by the howling wind outside. By the morning it was no better and it was obvious we’d be going nowhere. After an aborted climb to a low level col due to driving snow we resigned ourselves to a day of sleep, cards and reading.

Mountaineering is often a waiting game but, with no signs of the weather improving and realistically only one more day left to summit, morale in the group was low.

Although the next day dawned clear, the wind was still gusting. However, Youseff decided it’d be safe to climb to the Tizi’n Toubkal col (3,940m). Leaving the deep snow of the valley floor, the gradient steepened to frozen scree slopes and our crampon points bit with a satisfying crunch.

Occasional gusts of wind forced us to stop and secure our position with our ice axes, but before long we reached the easier ground of the col and the wind abated. The summit was suddenly a possibility and although the altitude reduced our pace to a plod we crested the last steep pitch and onto the summit ridge.

The view opened up to reveal numerous peaks seemingly floating amidst a sea of clouds below our feet. The metal pyramid that marked the summit was finally visible and with renewed energy we made the final push to the top. The climb had taken 4.5 hours but the views and elation more than made up for our labours.

We hared down the mountain in two hours taking advantage of any suitable snow slopes for some impromptu “bottom tobogganing” and bounded through any deeper snow. It was the ideal release for the previous days frustrations and we knew, having achieved the trip’s main objective, that we wouldn’t be leaving the High Atlas the next day with any regrets.

How fit and experienced do I need to be?

You should have a good level of hill walking or trekking fitness. Previous experience of using crampons and an ice axe is useful but not essential and this trip is an ideal introduction to winter mountaineering.

What special kit do I need?

Good quality and well worn-in crampon-compatible 3-4 season hiking boots. Clothing wise what you’d take for an Alpine ski trip would suffice. 3-4 season sleeping bag and 25-litre day-pack. A head-torch and vacuum flask are also useful. Hire of crampons and ice axe can be arranged in the UK for pick-up at Marrakech airport.

When to go

Toubkal is typically in winter condition from November-March.

How to get there

Nik travelled with the Adventure Company and flew with Royal Air Maroc.

The trip costs £629 including flights and all meals and accommodation, except for lunch and dinner on the final day.

The full itinerary includes four consecutive 5-8 hour climbing days. But this is weather-dependent.

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