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Route The Beacons Horseshoe County Powys Difficulty Moderate to hard Distance 11km (7 miles) Typical time Four hours OS grid reference: SO031179, Explorer OL 12 Starting point Parking area by the dam of the lower Neuadd Reservoir. Access via the road between Vaynor/Merthyr and Talybont
Blister rating: 4/5
View rating: 4/5
Why I love this walk
If you live in the South and want to climb mountains — or what pass for mountains in these islands — your closest peaks are probably the Brecon Beacons, less than three hours from London if you don’t get caught up in Friday afternoon traffic.
Pen-y-fan is the highest point in South Wales. The reward for the climb to the top is splendid views: towards Snowdonia in the north, the Black Mountains to the east and the valleys of South Wales. It is claimed, though I have never seen it myself, that if you get a diamond-bright day and have the eyesight of an elf, you can see Exmoor to the south and even Cadair Idris in Snowdonia.
If the visibility is poor you shouldn’t be up there at all. A mere 886m (2,907ft) might seem nothing more than a big hill but sections of this walk follow a precipitous drop.
On a good day there can be quite a procession of walkers slogging along this route or variations of it, but the landscape is big enough for you to avoid too much congestion, and the feeling of liberation on the top is worth all the effort.
The route
1 Do not go through the gate but turn up to the right. After about 30m you reach a track; cross the stile and walk along between two fences. When the fence on your right turns right, follow it up; as you approach the trees, bear left to join the rough track.
2 Turn left on the Roman road, go down a steep dip and up the other side, bearing right at the top. Follow the track for about 4km to the top of the pass.
3 At the top of the pass, cross the stile on your left and bear left on the clear path around the shoulder of Cribyn. (Before you cross the stile, you may want to continue ahead for about 50m for a view to Brecon and the Eppynt Hills).
4 You reach the saddle between Cribyn and Pen-y-fan. As you climb, look over your right shoulder for views of Cribyn, Llangorse Lake, the Black Mountains and later the Sugar Loaf.
5 The summit of Pen-y-fan is marked by a cairn. At 892m (2,927ft), it is the highest point in South Wales. Start your descent towards the flat top of Corn Du, but bear left at the saddle; at the next saddle bear left again, climbing slightly to follow the escarpment for about 5km. You pass a valley view on your right and later pass to the left of a cairn, following the edge (very steep in places). Pass another cairn and ignore the path down to your left.
6 A trig point is visible on the skyline ahead. To the left you can see your route down from the escarpment about a kilometre ahead.
7 Turn right to start a steep descent. Keeping the trees on your right, aim for the end of the dam. Go though the gate, walk along the dam, then veer off to the right to cross a bridge and go through the gate to reach the starting point.
Source: www.walkingworld.com
Contributor: John Thorn. Walk No 1290
Things to see
Magnificent mountain scenery and lake views, abundant wildlife and birds
Pub rating: 4/5
Pub: The Bear, Crickhowell
This 15th-century inn, a 20-minute drive from the walk route, has twice won the Best Pub in Britain award. Johnny Depp visited when he was filming near by
Where to stay
Gliffaes
Country House Hotel
A family-run country house hotel in large grounds above the River Usk, with
its own salmon and trout fishing
Cherrypicker House
A friendly B&B in a 250-year-old Georgian townhouse that retains many of
its original characteristics, such as an open stone fireplaces, twisting oak
stairs and exposed beams
Felin Fach Griffin Inn
An inn with seven bedrooms with an award-winning restaurant that serves
simple, unfussy food using local ingredients
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