Edward Owen
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To understand many of Dalí’s paintings and his fixation with his beloved corner of northeast Spain, it is essential to visit this unspoilt area, one of the most beautiful in Europe. The white-peaked Pyrenees sweep down to a fertile green plain that fringes the azure Mediterranean with hills and craggy inlets.
The Upper Empordà of Catalonia is steeped in the mythology that Dalí enthusiastically embraced. Here the often fierce tramuntana wind blows from the mountains and weathers the tortured rocks of the Cap de Creus headland.
The Dalí triangle takes in the artist’s Theatre Museum in his birthplace Figueres, his home at Portlligat, on the coast near Cadaqués, and Gala’s Púbol Castle to the south in Lower Empordà.
Pilgrimages should be made by car and prolonged to enjoy the surrounding area with its host of attractions, including lovely Costa Brava beaches and coves, medieval villages, outstanding gastronomy, great hotels and spas, walking and cycling routes and golf courses.
Figueres is just 24km (15 miles) on the motorway from the French border, or 38km from Gerona, the regional capital and its airport.
Figueres offers a short walking route to see where Dalí was born and other sights connected to him, such as the fascinating Toy Museum, home to his teddy bear, Don Osito Marquina.
An excellent hotel is the fairly modern Empordà, on the edge of Figueres and near its gigantic fortress. It boasts a superb Catalan restaurant run by Jaume Subirós. Dalí loved the foie gras there, and its mar y montaña dishes of seafood and meat are legendary.
The artist also ate regularly at the Hotel Duran, founded in 1855 and still run by the same charming family. He drank rioja in moderation and ate duck with pears beside the wine barrels in the old bodega, which is still in use.
From Figueres take the road to Cadaqués via the hilltop monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes and the fishing port of El Port de la Selva. On the way up there are great views of the Pyrenees and Mount Canigó (2,784m), which Dalí called the home to the Gods.
The monastery at Sant Pere (St Peter’s remains were said to have been hidden there) dates from the 10th century and, at a height of 520m, commands a stunning view up the coast to France and down to Cap de Creus, with El Port de la Selva nestling below. Dalí loved this area, with its history of pilgrim routes, military castles and raiding Berber pirates. The road twists down to Selva and onwards to the isolated inlet and bay of Cadaqués.
The old fishing village is dominated by its white church and a steep hill on its southern side, with a jumble of white houses, some with colourful shutters, in cobbled alleyways around the little beach and harbour. Dalí’s family holiday home was by the shore on the south side. The brilliance of the light dancing on the water illustrates why Cadaqués drew artists and poets.
For the best view, stay in a seaside balcony room at the Hotel Playa Sol, enjoy a drink at the old Casino club and tuck into paella on the terrace of Restaurant Sa Gambina.
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