See and be seen

The English Market (see Three Unmissables, below) is a great place to see and be seen by Cork people; also strolling the broad quays along the North and South Channels of the River Lee.

Three Unmissables

When in Cork, don't whatever you do miss out on the fun and spectacle of the covered English Market off Grand Parade, where dozens of stalls sell everything form tatty old paperbacks to the trendiest of olive marinades, stout farmers' boots to pizza, stinging red peppers, large ladies' knickers and farmhouse cheeses. South of the city centre, St Finbarr's Cathedral across South Gate Bridge has a wonderfully extravagant Victorian Gothic Revival interior full of colour and dash. North of the centre you can climb the hill to St Anne's Church and send a peal from the famous Bells of Shandon - your own composition, or a tune from a handy crib card - out across the city.

Pubbing

The live music scene is excellently represented at An Spailpín Fanach, a nice cosy pub on South Main Street, right opposite the Beamish brewery - the music is generally traditional, but almost anything might happen. For that longed-for quiet pint in conversational surroundings (firelit on chilly days) you can't do better than the cosy little first-floor Hi-B Bar opposite Cork city post office on Oliver Plunkett Street.

Nightlife and Clubbing

If you'd enjoy standing up and shouting your head off at the dogs, aim for Cork Greyhound Stadium in Curaheen Park on Curaheen Road. A different kind of culture is on offer at Cork Opera House on Emmet Place, and at the restored Victorian Everyman Palace Theatre on MacCurtain Street. Cork's clubs seem to change spots faster than a teenager.

Eating

Isaac's at 48 MacCurtain Street is a Cork institution with its friendly atmosphere and tiptop cooking of traditional Irish dishes given an exciting modern twist. Bodega on Cornmarket Street is a nice informal contemporary eatery. Vegetarians will love the Café Paradiso at 16 Lancaster Quay on the River Lee's South Channel which offers brilliant cooking of vegetables from all over the world.

And though you wouldn't necessarily look in an art gallery for a good meal, Cork's Crawford Gallery Café on Emmet Place is run by the celebrated Ballymaloe House, which means that the Ballymaloe kitchens, gardens and bakery supply most of the fabulous food here.

Tourist information

www.corkkerry.ie/corktio
www.tourismireland.com

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