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Why should I go? You’re not the first to ask. In 2004, Ryanair’s boss, Michael O’Leary, put Polish backs up when, dismissing expansion into eastern Europe, he said: “Take Gdansk. Who wants to go to Gdansk?” After an executive U-turn, however, it quietly appeared on Ryanair’s route map, and last year EasyJet also began flights. With good reason: Gdansk has a long and fascinating history, reflected in a colourful old town at odds with the image its name may conjure up.

The city is probably best known for the Lenin Shipyard strikes, which gave birth to Lech Walesa’s Solidarity movement, spelling the beginning of the end for communism in Poland.

The shipyard is still there, its entrance overshadowed by a sobering monument to the workers who were “pacified”.

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Earlier, Gdansk had the dubious distinction of seeing the opening shots of the second world war – a war that virtually flattened it. Now, though, the meticulously restored cobbled streets, stepped gables and ornate facades are a reminder of the port’s days as a big player in the Hanseatic League. Squint as you step out of a bar in the centre and you could be in Bruges or Amsterdam.

What should I do? The old town is easy to get to grips with, linked to the River Motlawa by a series of arched gateways. The most imposing, the four-arched Green Gate (it’s actually pink), leads to the main square, Dlugi Targ, and the skinny spire of the town hall. A couple of blocks downriver is Mariacka, a time-warp street of terraced houses (many now shops selling local amber) and toothy gargoyles.

Above them looms the dark bulk of St Mary’s, said to be the world’s biggest brick church. Its whitewashed interior only makes it seem vaster. Climb the 405 steps to the belfry roof (60p) for a Lord’s-eye view of the city – but, for the sake of your eardrums, avoid the stroke of midday.

Even if you’re not one for museums, don’t miss Roads to Freedom (Waly Piastowskie 24; 10am-5pm, closed Mon; £1.10), an underground exhibition near the shipyard that charts the rise of Solidarity. For all the clever multimedia displays, it’s the simple exhibits, such as a bullet-holed steelworker’s jacket, that bring home just how much has changed over the past three decades.

Where should I stay? For old-world elegance, you can’t beat the five-star Podewils (Szafarnia 2; 00 48-58 300 9560, www.podewils-hotel.pl ; doubles from £130, B&B), a baroque mansion near the river. Its 10 rooms combine antiquefurniture with swish bathrooms. In the centre, Gotyk House (Mariacka 1; 58 301 8567, www.gotykhouse.eu ; doubles from £47) is great value: dating from 1541and smartlyrenovated, it retains gothic touches such as arched doorways and stained glass.

Where should I eat? Cafe Kamienica (Mariacka 37/39; mains from £3) is a cosy pit stop for hot chocolate or brunch. Chlopskie Jadlo (Szeroka 33/35; mains from £4) does filling “peasant food” suchas zurek(sausage soup).Dinner at the Podewilsis pricey for Poland,but a bargain for Brits (mains from £11).

How do I get there?There are flights to Gdansk from 14 UK airports, and Cork, Shannon and Dublin. Airlines include EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ), Wizzair (www.wizzair.com ), Central Wings (www.centralwings.com ) and Ryanair (0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com ).

Rob Kingston travelled as a guest of EasyJet and Gotyk House

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