Bruges by day

Bruges has a compact old town where around 30,000 of the city's 100,000 inhabitants live inside what is known as 'the egg', a roughly egg-shaped area taking the outer canals as its limits.

Our guide, Bieke, usually works for the tourist board, but worked full-time as assistant to Ralph Fiennes during filming. She takes us to the central landmark that features prominently in the film, the bell tower in the Markt (Market Square). At 83 metres tall, it's worth climbing the Belfort's 366 steps to share the view that the actors enjoyed.

From there it's a short stroll to the Basilica of the Holy Blood, with its colourful paintings, bright stained-glass windows and a silver and marble alter that contains the supposed relic - a vial of Christ's blood that is paraded around the town on Ascension Day in May.

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Surrounding this are the administrational buildings of the Burg square, including the grand 14th century town hall and 16th century records office, complete with its Renaissance facade.

Across the square you'll find the Celtic Ireland tavern, better than most touristy Irish pubs in Europe, and a favourite of Colin and Brendon - Bieke reckons it was a struggle to drag them out of there on Sundays when the rugby was showing.

We visit the Groeninge Museum, where Ken once again fails to engage Ray in the local culture and history - it's notable for famous artworks by then likes of Jan van Eyck and Hieronymus Bosch.

Behind the Greoninge is the Gruuthuse Palace, built from the wealth of the owners who had the right to charge a tax for the gruit, a herb and flower spice mix used to aid the beer brewing process before hops became popular at the end of the 16th century. It's here that Colin Farrell meets his love interest, Chloe, and the acerbic dwarf actor Jimmy, as they work on a film that is being shot at night in the courtyard.

Next door, the Church of our Lady, with its 122m spire, is one of the most beautiful in Bruges and worth a look inside, not least for its Michelangelo statue Madonna and Child.

When you've had enough of the concentrated sights in the very centre of the town, one of many fine walks off the beaten tourist track is out to two remaining windmills at the east side of outer canal ringt on Kruisvekt.

This takes you past Cafe Vlissinghe, the oldest tavern in Bruges which dates back to 1515.

Next you come to the Jerusalem Church, where the scene that is set in the Basilica of the Holy Blood was actually filmed - they weren't allowed to film in the real one, but this 15th alternative, where Brendon Gleeson is seen climbing the stairs to the relic while Colin Farrell struggles to find his faith, is worth a visit for its stained glass windows, spooky skull-adorned altar and replica of Christ's tomb, complete with replica body.

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