Listed by Unesco in 1992 as a World Heritage Site, its twisty cobbled streets, Gothic spires, frescoes and jumble of attractive gabled houses tumbling down to the river attract day-trippers, but it’s still quieter and more manageable than the Czech capital.

A Grimm’s fairytale castle and château (closed Mondays) dominate the town with a Rapunzel-style painted tower. Made up of 40 separate buildings, mainly Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque, the complex is best toured with an English-speaking guide (tours cost just over £3).

In the 16th century the complex was the family seat of the Rozmberks, who decorated the walls with exquisite frescoes (still being uncovered) until their lavish lifestyle and resulting debts forced them to sell out to the Schwarzenbergs, pillars of the Habsburg Empire, who ruled until 1945.

Entry is over the medieval castle moat, home to a pair of sad-looking bears whose ancestors provided furry rugs for the draughty rooms. Highlights include the Renaissance cellars, the rococo marble chapel of Saint George, the Eggenberg Hall with its 17th-century 24ct gold coach, used only once, and the Masquerade Hall of magnificently kitsch 18th-century murals.

Among Cesky’s cultural events (www.ckrumlov.cz), none is more charming than the alfresco performances on the revolving auditorium in the castle gardens. Operas and plays are in Czech, so the ballet, Swan Lake (August 10-14), is a safer bet.

Cesky also hosts an International Music Festival, with mixed sounds from jazz and folk to chamber music and organ recitals until August 28. Its annual film festival, October 4-10, this year focuses on the environment.

The Egon Shiele Art Centrum (www.schieleartcentrum.cz), daily 10am-6pm, features contemporary Czech and international art.

WHAT ELSE?

Here for the beer? The local Eggenberg brewery offers tours with tastings from £2.25 a head (00 380 711225, www.eggenberg.cz).

Otherwise get active and paddle your own canoe on the Vlatva. Four hours for two costs from £15 (711988, www.ckvltava.cz). There’s also good hiking on waymarked paths in the neighbouring Sumava region. Mount Klet (1,083m) is a gentle 18km (11-mile) walk from the castle through pine woods. A chair-lift eases the strain of the final ascent and there’s a welcome pub at the top.

WHERE TO STAY?

Hotel Ruze, Horni 154 (772100, www.hotelruze.cz) is the smartest address in town with pool, gym and riverside dining terrace. Doubles from £75, singles from £55 a night.

Pension Anna, Roosevelta 41 (711692, www.pensionanna.euweb.cz) has spotless rooms with showers and generous breakfasts of eggs, cheese and cooked meats which could stretch into a packed lunch, for £30 a night for two.

FOOD AND FUN

Hospoda Na louzi on Na louzi square is the oldest pub in town, with jokey waiters and granny’s attic furniture. It also has the cheapest grub for lunch. Four of us dined with beers for just over £8.

At night you can eat almost anywhere with two courses and a bottle of local Moravian wine for £10 a head. The fish restaurant Jakuba Krcína, opposite Na louzi, has beautiful frescoes and serves excellent trout and chips (no credit cards). Hotel Konvice (711611), Horni 144, opposite the Ruze, is good for Eastern European dishes such as goulash and duck with red cabbage.

NEED TO KNOW

EasyJet (0871 7500100, www.easyjet.com) has flights daily from Stansted, Gatwick and East Midlands to Prague from £60 return. There are regular buses from outside Prague’s Smichov railway station, or trains from the main railway station.

Both cost about £3 one way and take three-and-a-half hours. Information: Info Centrum (00 380 704622, www.ckrumlov.cz/infocentrum); www.czechtourism.com.

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