All Lisbon numbers should be prefixed with +351

WHAT'S IT LIKE?

Not so long ago, Lisbon was one of Europe's best-kept secrets: a beautiful city on a sweep of river, boasting grand buildings from Portugal's 15th-century heyday as well as quirky corners. But EU membership brought an economic boom and the trappings of modernity, while word spread of its funky charms and nightlife.

Arguably the first truly world city, 500 years ago, it is becoming so again, thanks to immigrant communities and rising visitor numbers (last year it overtook the Algarve). 2004's European football finals helped, but the trend is long-term.

URBAN WALK

Hills and the haphazard layout of most bairros (neighbourhoods) means that only by yomping can you get the best out of Lisbon. Start in Alfama, whose name and labyrinthine streets betray its Moorish past (the Christian Reconquest began here in 1147), and climb to Castelo, nestling around the hilltop castle of São Jorge, with splendid views. Downhill, on Rua da Saudade, are the remains of a Roman theatre, followed by the 12th-century Sé cathedral and, opposite, the church of Santo António (the city's favourite son, but - to local chagrin - more famous as St Anthony of Padua).

Follow the main road down into Baixa (downtown), a prime example of 18th-century rational planning. Its grid, stretching between two grand squares - Rossio and Praça do Comércio - was imposed by then chief minister, the Marquis of Pombal, after a devastating earthquake in 1755. On the slope west of Baixa is Chiado, a once elegant retail district that is regaining its flair. Footsore visitors can clank back to Alfama on the picturesque number 28 tram.

OUTDOOR SPACES

The Avenida da Liberdade is the city's clogged main artery, north from Baixa, wide and leafy enough for its esplanades to be inviting. Pretty gardens include the Jardim da Praça do Príncipe Real (in Lisbon's gayest neighbourhood) and the Jardim da Estrela. The Botanical Garden (tel. 21 392 1893) at Rua da Escola Politécnica 58, contains 10,000 plants. Then there are the beaches: within an hour's drive or train ride are rocky coves, flat strands and fine surfing. Carcavelos is the nearest, 20 minutes away.

MARKETS

The Feira da Ladra at Campo de Santa Clara in Alfama may not get its name from the word for thief (ladrão) as many believe, but stolen goods really do turn up here. The flea market is on Tuesdays and Saturdays from 6am to 3pm.

The covered Mercado da Ribeira, opposite Cais do Sodré station, is enlivened by the raucous peixeiras (fishwives) of popular local imagination, voices hoarse from proclaiming the virtues of their fish and the vices of their neighbours.

MUST SEE

The Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Avenida da Berna 45, tel. 21 782 3000) is reason enough in itself to visit Lisbon, with fabulous Oriental and Islamic art, Greek and Roman treasures, priceless Lalique crystal and medieval to modern European art.

And if you make only one trip out of town, go to Sintra, 40 minutes by train. Byron's 'Glorious Eden' is a Unesco World Heritage site thanks partly to its palaces, but its cool, wooded hills have been regarded as magical - literally - for millennia.

MUST BUY

Look out for azulejos (ceramic tiles), pottery and glass. There's a good selection of ports and wines at Garrafeira Nacional (Rua de Santa Justa 18, tel. 21 887 9080).

BEST BUILDING

For romance and symbolism you can't beat the Mosteiro de Jerónimos (tel. 21 362 0034) in Belém. It's the epitome of Manueline (late Gothic), its architraves a riot of foliage and marine motifs inspired by the voyages of Portugal's 15th century seafarers. The cloisters are the highlight. The church houses the tombs of Vasco da Gama and national poet Luís de Camões.

SECRET PLACES

The downtown Associação de Cabo-Verde ( 8th floor at Avenida Duque de Palmela 2, tel. 21 353 1932), is the centre of the Cape Verdean community, offering cheap, hearty African lunches and live music on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Also visit the Vilas, workers' housing built by philanthropists in the early 1900s, in Graça, at Largo da Graça and off Rua da Senhora da Glória and Rua do Sol.

LIVE SOUNDS

The most accessible of Lisbon's many African clubs and restaurants is Club B.Leza (Largo Conde Barão 50) in a crumbling mansion, or there's Enclave (Rua do Sol ao Rato, tel. 21 388 8738), whose owner is Cape Verdean singer Tito Paris, and who serenades diners until midnight before everyone decamps downstairs where there's space to dance.

Hot Clube (Praça da Alegria 39, tel. 21 346 7369) is a classic jazz cellar, but smoky rock den O Berro (Rua da Esperança 158, tel. 21 396 5568) is more Portuguese. If you only go to one club, make it Lux (Cais da Pedra à Santa Apolónia, tel. 21 882 0890).

BOHO SCENE

The once-aristocratic Bairro Alto (upper quarter) sold its soul to entertainment in the 19th century and never redeemed it. Today, fado joints devoted to Lisbon's unique blues style alternate with Indian and Japanese restaurants, and DJ-driven bars thrive along pared-down cafés.
Older bohos gather at Bartis (Rua do Diário de Notícias 95, tel. 21 342 4795). Trendier places are often a shade gay: Purex, Frágil and Majong among them. With local residents complaining of noise, new bars are shifting to Santos, down by the river.

GREAT BITES

In Belém, the Antiga Confeitaria purveys the finest pastéis de nata. This azulejo-lined warren daily sells thousands of these cream tarts, made to a secret recipe. For more solid fare, try specialities from carne de porco á alentejana (pork with clams) to bacalhau (salt cod) which is rumoured to have 365 cooking methods.

Casa do Alentejo (Rua de Santa Antão 58, tel. 21 340 5140) offers cheap food in a neo-Moorish setting. Primavera (Travessa da Espera 34, tel. 21 342 0477) is a friendly Bairro Alto eatery. Cosy Tasquinha de Adelaide (Rua do Patrocínio 70, tel. 21 396 2239) has delicious main dishes from £12. The cavernous Kais (Cais da Viscondessa, tel. 21 393 2930) is a similarly priced, trendier riverside option.

WHERE TO SLEEP

Posh: Palácio Belmonte (tel. 21 881 6600; suites from £270) abuts the castle, its courtyard a public thoroughfare. But not even a sign marks the presence of this poshest of posh hotels - a painstakingly restored 15th Century palace lined with azulejos.

Affordable: For a less expensive palatial option nearby, try Solar do Castelo (21 887 0909; double rooms from £123) which is built on the site of the old palace kitchens within the walls of St Jorge's Castle.

WHERE TO START

Portugal National Tourist Office (tel. 0906 3640610); Lisbon Tourism Association

Flights to Lisbon from: British Airways, TAP and Monarch

Buy Alison Roberts' guidebook Time Out Lisbon (£12.99 plus p&p from www.timeout.com)

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