For a fast track to Bilbao’s pintxos (tapas) culture, visit the arcaded Plaza Nueva and surrounding alleys. From early evening on, the elegant square heaves with locals on the good-natured lash, weaving between the arcade’s bars or sitting out in the evening sun. Tick off the following: Zuga, Café BarBilbao and Victor Montes (each 10 seconds’ walk apart). Observe alcoholic convention by pacing yourself with a txikito (dinky glass of wine or shot of beer).

THE CONTEMPORARY CITY

Every city needs a ‘Wow, what a view!’, and this is Bilbao’s. Board the Funicular de Artxanda (Plaza Funicular; 00 34 94 445 4966; £1), and in three minutes, you’re at the top of Artxanda Hill, with its esplanade, leafy park, restaurants and bars. Gaze out over the Old Town’s gingerbread rooftops and spires one way, counterpointed by the smart Gran Via, stretching in an unwavering straight line for nearly two kilometres.

Now cross the Zubizuri Bridge and you’re virtually on the doorstep of the Big One. Frank Gehry came up with a monumental design for the Guggenheim Bilbao (Avenue Abandoibarra 2; 00 34 94 435 9090, www.guggenheim-bilbao.es; £10 including audio guide; closed Mondays September-June). Take time to absorb the exterior, a work of art in itself – all limestone, steel, glass and titanium cladding. Inside, vast white spaces on three levels are the canvas for modern art exhibitions. Highlights include works by Rothko, de Kooning and Warhol, as well as Richard Serra’s tactile bronze installation, stretching almost the length of the 130m gallery.

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A short stroll east is Café Iruna (Jardines de Albia; 00 34 94 423 7021, www.cafesdebilbao.net). This 19th-century landmark in a tree-lined square brims with character. Walls are decorated with Moorish tiles and a riot of Arabesque ornamentation. It’s on the tourist run but residents come too, keeping the atmosphere authentic.

More must-see art is on show at Bilbao Fine Arts Museum (Museo Plaza 2; 00 34 94 439 6060, www.museobilbao.com; £4). Works are displayed in a Victorian gallery linked to a sympathetically designed glass addition. Expect Spanish greats Goya and El Greco in the Classical Art section, and Hockney and Bacon in Contemporary Art. You’ll find perceptive paintings with a strain of melancholy in Basque Art.

From here, it’s mere moments to the lengthy Gran Via, coursing from east to west, with historic Plaza Moyua spouting fountains at its heart. Solid, elegant architecture from the 19th century looms over wide pavements landscaped with cafes and lime trees either side. (Think of Parisian boulevards.) Bring your plastic – it’s all about pricey designer shops.

WORD IS OUT: With more Xs than Simon Cowell, the Basque lingo, Euskera, is hard to grasp. But charm locals with the phrase eskerrik asko – that’s ‘thanks’. LITTER LOUT: In pintxos bars, always throw paper napkins on the floor – only shy tourists leave them on plates or surfaces. OUT OF PUFF? Smokers rejoice: you’re still allowed to light up in some bars, clubs and restaurants. EL CHEAPO: Don’t set off without a BilbaoCard (www.bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo; valid from one to three days, £11 max): unlimited ‘hop on ’n’ off’, plus great discount deals around town. THEY GET A KICK: Bilbainos support Bilbao Athletic (www.athletic-club.net) with a passion. Everyone else is disdained. Don’t get drawn in.

WHERE TO STAY

NO EXPENSE SPARED

Carlton, Plaza Federico Moyna 2 (00 34 94 416 2200, www.hotelcarlton.es). Located in one of the smartest plazas, this is the grande dame of Bilbao. It’s done up classically, with marble, period furniture and high vaulted ceilings, but rooms don’t neglect essential 21st-century technology. Doubles from £200, B&B.

Sheraton, Lehendakari Leizaola 29 (00 34 94 428 0000, www.sheraton.com/bilbao). OK, it’s a business hotel, but it’s stylish, with a hacienda design and Santa Fe colours – adobe pinks, terracottas and yellows. There’s a tiny pool, charming staff and great service. Doubles from £135, B&B.

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