Central route

Calais to Girona (for Dordogne, Languedoc and Costa Brava)

Day 1: Calais to Bourges (334 miles, tolls £36, 5hr 30min) Controversial one, this. There are three ways of getting to Bourges from Calais, and all have their fans. So let us cut through the cackle. The best method is to leave Calais as above, then, just beyond Arras, forget about Rheims and head dead south for Paris.

Despite tall terror tales, getting round the French capital is a cinch. What you do is follow signs for Paris and Paris Centre — but only until you spot directions to Bordeaux. These show up quite early and should be followed slavishly, wherever they take you.

With due care and attention, you’ll be free within 50 minutes and gliding through the flatlands of the Beauce breadbasket country. At Orléans, forget the Bordeaux signs and shave off towards Bourges and Clermont-Ferrand.

A little further on, Vierzon means decision time. If you are bound for the Dordogne, Toulouse, the central Pyre­nees or elsewhere in the great inland French southwest, veer off, following signs to Limoges and onto Toulouse. For the Auvergne, Languedoc and the Costa Brava, continue following Clermont-Ferrand to exit 7.

Exhausted with all these geo-details, dart three miles off the motorway to Bourges for a night at the Hôtel d’Angle­terre (1 Place des Quatre Piliers; 02 48 24 68 51, bestwestern.fr; doubles from £101, B&B). Both regal and scurrying, Bourges is a fine evening antidote to motorway rootlessness. On a tiny central square, the Angleterre provides a civilised base, as well as private parking (reserve a space when you book). Dine at Le Bourbonnoux (44 Rue Bourbonnoux; 02 48 24 14 76, bourbonnoux.com; menus from £17).

Day 2: Bourges to Girona (404 miles, tolls £33, 7hr) This morning, glide south past Clermont- Ferrand — direction Montpellier. Shortly, you’re tacking up into the Massif Central, driving at altitudes higher than any peak in England or Wales. It’s glorious: wild, forested uplands dotted with tough stone villages still obviously surprised to find a motorway where cattle trails should be. And it’s free for some 200 miles.

Or almost. You must fork out £6.80 to cross the Millau viaduct. This, though, is a small price to pay to soar over the Tarn Valley on a bridge so elegant, it seems to be completing nature’s design for the site. It leads to the huge, inhos­pitable Aubrac plateau, world centre of rocks, Roquefort cheese and the French eco-rebel José Bové and his moustache.

When given the chance, dump the Montpellier signs for Béziers. Before too long, there’s a brief break in the motorway. Don’t worry. Pick up the blue signs for Barcelona and shortly you’re back on track, soaking up sun and miles on the Languedoc plain.

At Narbonne, ensure you’re not whisked off to Toulouse. Concentrate on those Barcelona directions. Waft past Perpignan, up into the Pyrenees and into Spain at Le Perthus. You’ve got less than 50 minutes to Girona, spotting signs to your resort on the crinkle-cut Costa Brava coast as you go.

Western route

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