There is little doubt that the cottages are hewn out of the Dartmoor granite as we christened the car with the sound of metal grating on stone. (What did he expect asking a six year old to guide him back?) Such an entrance did remind us of the pitfalls of any large family descending on five-star accommodation (awarded by Visit Britain). There is bound to be a high ‘oops’ factor.

Fortunately Phillipa Hughes, who converted these agricultural buildings first built by the Lord Chief Justice in 1901, has a robust farming approach to mud, while offering style and comfort in the form of agas, log fires, satellite tv, washer/dryers and fluffy white towels. The farm cottages, former piggeries and barns, are attached to the Holne Chase Hotel, also owned and run by the Hughes, where 55% of visitors bring their dogs (a pet grooming parlour is run on site).

The Hotel relationship meant that we could use the babysitting service to leave the children and eat there on Sunday evening, hovering up delicious local crab and fish, and tasting the amuse bouches of meat that has travelled no more than six food miles. Dining room a bit pin-droppy for our taste, despite Nessum Dorma playing softly, but away from the kids, who cares.

The cottages don’t come cheap, but you are paying for service, service, service. Devon cycles dropped off five hire bikes for the family on Saturday, we took a trip around the falconry (too much rain to take our 9 year old to hunt with an eagle, sadly) on Sunday, and the Hughes will be offering riding for adults from Easter and fishing with a ghillie when the season begins again in Spring.

Service also means that you pre-order your food ahead with a push on their own fayre from the Tor to Tor delivery service, including ready-made steak and ale pie (ask if you want it defrosted and ready to eat on arrival). Our three children met the saddleback pigs (also available in sausage form as part of the Welcome Pack), the Belted Galloway cattle, the chickens, ponies, doves, donkeys, geese and ducks on the farm,as well as playing noisily on the mini-John Deere tractors in the barn.

What about the rooms? The five cottages are three-, four- or five-bedroomed, all with brand new oak beds and fake fur or quilted throws. Not large, and only one ensuite in our cottage, but you are supposed to be striding healthily across the tors and the moors, visible from all bedroom windows.

Go on then, tell us about the food…if you take advantage of the pre-ordered food service, rather than schlep warm groceries across the country, then you are in for a treat. Ready-made puddings of Baileys and Vanilla Cheese Cake and Rhubarb and apple crumble, meat that has been slaughtered in the next door field, and game when the season allows it. These people care about the provenance of food.

Will she let us feed the animals? In true Dartmoor roam-free manner, the children are only kept on the 500 acre site by fences and cattle grids (‘like being shot by a machine gun riding over those, Mum’). Big tractors and bulls mean children need supervising.

Who should go? Families with older children (6 upwards ideal) to allow freedom without fear of falling into rivers, ditching their bikes, being eaten by scary eagle called Evie.

Who shouldn’t go? Indoors types. This is rugged Dartmoor, so bring a mac.

Need to know www.holwelldartmoor.co.uk. A 3 night low-season break at Holwell Farm Cottages costs £450 to £750 depending on cottage size. After April 6, cottages available from £1,100 per week.

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