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At the age of eight, my daughter Nina does not have a strong sense of species
differentiation.
On the sweaty drive to Oban, she spent most of the time on her toy mobile
phone, texting friends, family and the Ood, who are, as Doctor Who fans will
recall, creepy aliens with multitentacled heads and extensive supernatural
powers. Strikingly like creatures of the deep, we could agree.
But, I reminded her, the point of our break in Mull was to see real, living
whales, porpoises, seals and puffins. We were to learn about their feeding
patterns, predators and breeding and to come back relaxed, revived and full
of eco promises.
It was not to communicate with intergalactic life forms and then go in the
huff.
We were to spend two days out with Sea Life Surveys, a family-run, Mull-based
firm that combines tourist boat trips with research into the minke whales
and other cetaceans who inhabit the waters around the Inner Hebrides.
Day one was an eight-hour whale-watching marathon on board the Alpha Beta with
eight other binocular-toting, cagoule-wearing wildlife enthusiasts.
A joy for those with sturdy sea legs and 20-20 vision, but, in retrospect,
overambitious for a pair of shortsighted landlubbers. Nina was too poorly to
drink her hot chocolate, threw up her ginger biscuit and spent a good deal
of the trip below deck, curled beneath a fleece.
I did not fare much better and had to retire to a quiet spot at the bow where
I could doze queasily, sitting up only to peer at harbour porpoises playing
with their calves, minkes feeding and an unfeasibly cute puffin swimming
along in our wake with a bill full of sand eels. Such are the hazards of
pursuing nature’s greatest creatures.
Lunch was sandwiches on Muck, a crumb on the map between the islands of Eigg
and Rum. Here it’s all corrugated iron lean-tos and lethargic poultry, a
scene that makes Mull look like Las Vegas. And although we tottered up the
pier looking distinctly green, a stroll, a sit-down and a can of organic
ginger beer from the extraordinarily well-appointed tea room soon had us
feeling ready for the return journey.
The next day’s four-hour jaunt was much more obviously a commercial
undertaking. The boat was bigger, the teenagers bored and the toddlers
restless. This made no difference to the fantastic basking shark that popped
up in the distance.
At the first sighting of the dorsal fin, Nina forgot her beloved Ood and
rushed to the side of the boat for a better
view. I can’t have been the only adult playing the theme from Jaws in my head.
In the still water, with enough cloud cover to cut the sun’s glare, we had a
superb view. Once our eyes had grown accustomed to the light, we could see
its tail fin and, as he opened his mouth to feed, his nose poking in and out
of the water.
With the engine off, we drifted, and he disappeared only to reappear on the
other side of the boat, close enough to touch. Not that anybody was
volunteering.
The shark’s huge, rust-mottled, prehistoric grey body was clearly visible just
below the water’s surface. Although they can grow to 12m, this one was not
such a whopper. His mouth, however, was on a scale unlike anything I have
ever seen.
He obligingly opened it very wide, giving us a good look at tiny vestigial
teeth and the rib-like bones that arch along the roof of the mouth. A
basking shark can, our guide assured us, filter the plankton from an
Olympic-sized swimming pool every hour — if there were any plankton in the
pool, and the attendant was foolish enough to sell the shark a ticket.
This one hung around for so long that we began to get blasé. The porpoises
playing in the distance suddenly seemed more exciting. Eventually, he slunk
off.
Word came through on the radio that there were minkes off Ardnamurchan Point,
the spot where we had seen them yesterday.
It would be a bit of a run for no guaranteed whales, but did we want to give
it a go? The democratic republic of Naturewatch decided that yes, we would.
Half an hour or so later, sure enough, the distinctive shape appeared in the
distance. I could even identify the difference between the shallow dips it
made to lunge feed — scoop whatever is edible from the surface of the water
— and the sharper, elbow bend it made to do a deeper dive, when it can stay
under the water for as long as 20 minutes.
My day of nausea had not been wasted after all. Had it been raining, I would
have worn my anorak with pride.
Details: Sea Life Surveys runs various boat trips and
packages (www.sealifesurveys.com). Accommodation is available at the
Bellachroy inn, Dervaig (www.thebellachroyhotel.co.uk), with double rooms
and breakfast from £37.50 per person per night.
Ferries leave Oban for Mull every two hours in the summer season
(www.calmac.co.uk).
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