Paul Croughton
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When you walk into the lobby of Le Parker Meridien, stroll past reception and turn left. You’ll look like you know what you’re doing. I didn’t. My information wasn’t as good as yours, you see. I stumbled into the tall, bright foyer, looked up at the high ceiling, nearly walked into a full-length mirror, ended up in the bathroom or the washroom or whatever, and then, reluctantly, went over to the concierge.
“I hear there’s a burger bar in here,” I said. “Oh, really?” she replied. “Who told you that?”
A few people, actually. I had been asking around for the best burger joint in Manhattan, a place where real New Yorkers ate, somewhere outsiders, tourists and the bridge-and-tunnel crowd wouldn’t know about. Incongruously, Le Parker Meridien, a well-to-do midtown hotel near Tiffany and Carnegie Hall, kept cropping up. It’s all a bit posh and polite and refined and clean-shaven – everything a good burger isn’t. This couldn’t be right.
To check, I asked a friend, a New Yorker, and her face fell. It seemed she was not happy with my information – not, as I’d feared, because it wasn’t true or she didn’t like it, but because she knew I’d like it and then tell you. And that would make it even harder to get a table when she wanted one.
“Well, they were right,” said the concierge, and pointed me down an unremarkable dark corridor that I’d walked straight past a moment earlier. A small, kitsch neon sign in the shape of a burger glowed above the black curtain at the end, like a distress flare sent up by the 1950s.
Behind the drape, things got even more David Lynch: hidden away in the middle of this slightly soulless establishment was The Burger Joint, a fabricated yet nonetheless quaint slice of Americana. It was tiny – seven booths, five tables and a bench, the kitchen no bigger than a boxroom – and it was packed. The walls were covered in film posters; a television nobody was watching was showing a game of baseball.
As I queued, I looked at the menu, written in marker pen on the side of a ripped-up cardboard box and stuck on the wall. “Step 1: Hamburger or cheeseburger? Step 2: How d’ya want it cooked? Step 3: What d’ya want on it? Lettuce, tomato, onion, gherkin, mayo or the works? Be ready or else you can go to the end of the line. Cash only.”
Milk shakes were available after 1.30pm for $4.50; there’s only one beer on tap – a dark Sam Adams served in pints for about the same, or pitchers for $17 – otherwise it’s a soda or lemonade (both at $1.75), or water. And for dessert, $2 brownies sat under a Perspex cover. As you can see, you don’t come here for the choice. But you do come here for burgers.
When I got to the front, I gave my name and got it shouted back at me when my patty came off the grill, handed over wrapped in waxy paper with my chips in a paper bag. My cheeseburger with the works cost me $7 (a burger is 50 cents cheaper). The plain bun was sesame-seed free and almost fluffy, the tomato fresh and crunchy, the chips thicker, just, than french fries, but far from chunky. But the meat was the star, striped on the grill but still pink in the middle, tender without being crumbly, rich with flavour and oozing juice that soaked into the paper and ran down my fingers.
As I sat and ate, I watched the business suits, the high heels and handbags, the college kids with rucksacks and headphones, the construction workers with stained T-shirts and steel toecaps. Over the white noise of conversation, and the Ramones and Fats Domino on the stereo, you heard patrons give their instructions – burger, rare, no onions; cheeseburger, medium, the works – and the chef reply in kind, barking out names (Lucy; Tay; Jon; Patrice). The only thing that linked the clientele was that they were here. They knew what I knew.
After a few moments’ deliberation over whether I could get away with ordering another burger under the heading “further research”, I opted for one of those brownies. It was nutty and splendid and almost too rich, but not quite. Ask for one cooked at the edge of the tray, as the outside crust gives it extra bite. It was delicious, just like the ones the chef used to make at the summer camp where I worked in Tennessee, years ago. It gave me the same sense of being on the cusp of America – as close as I could get to being a native in the space of a meal. With its Formica and fake wood walls, The Burger Joint might not be authentic – but it sure tastes like the real thing.
The Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridien, 118 West 57th Street (00 1 212 245 5000). Open 11am-11.30pm (midnight Friday and Saturday)
Travel brief: airlines flying to New York include Zoom (0870 240 0055, www.flyzoom.com), which has fares from £199; British Airways (0870 950 8950, www.ba.com); and Virgin Atlantic (0870 380 2007, www.virgin-atlantic.com). The Parker Meridien (00 1 212-245 5000, www.parkermeridien.com) has doubles from £211. The nearby Hudson Hotel (554 6000, www.hudsonhotel.com ) has doubles from £156.
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On my visits to NYC I enjoy the burgers at the Westside Brewery
nice burgers and chicken served in a toasted english muffin.
Much nicer than a stale sesame seed bun.
al stuart, ealing london, UK
The Burger Joint is good, but in my view over-rated. It's about as good as any burger in most dinner's in the Midwest. I live 2 blocks away and eat there often, but it's just good, not the best. Try BRGR, The Stand or the Shake Shack. All three are much better. Also the lamb burger at Punch is a star as well.
Marco, New York, NY
I ate at The Burger Joint and then Shake Shack on consecutive days in order to make my own judgement on the best burger. Whilst The Burger Joint is indeed very very good I've got to say that the burger's at Shake Shack completely blew it out of the water. In fact I'd almost say that the burger at Shake Shack is one of the best things I've tasted anywhere. Bottom line is that they're both exceptional burger bars but if you have to go to one make it Shake Shack, it's almost worth the plane fare.
Jonathan , London, England
i'm shocked to see the parker meridien burger place reviewed here, but you are correct. after checking out several of the well known "best burger" places in the city, i agree that this place is the best. there are other places that do better toppings, but the quality and taste of the meat at the parker meridien is what makes this burger the best.
kim, NYC, NY
Best steakhouse in NY....without a doubt: Peter Luger in Williamsburg, Brooklyn (just go across the williamsburg bridge and follow the crowds)
2nd best: Keens on 36th between 6th and 5th...old Irish pub with thick and juicy porterhouse.
Advice to all: bring your wallet
Roy, New York, US
I agree with previous comments regarding Lounge 47(Long island), definately worth the trip, gorgeous grub, great service and very cool bar.
Jon Dufty, Bournville, Birmingham, UK
While all you NYC guys are on here... What's the best steakhouse in Manhattan? I'm over in a few weeks time and want to go to a really good one!
AT, London,
PJ Clarks, NYC
dave , NYC, USA, NYC
Good choice. Now the line at Shake Shack will be shorter. Thanks for steering the tourists somewhere else!
NYC Native, NY, USA
I do not agree with Shireen from England, i visited lounge 47 last month and the burgers are not just the best in town they are the worlds best. Fantastic burgers and stunning surroundings.
jon hawes, leicester, leicestershire
JG Melon at Upper East Side does a mean traditonal American burger and has been there since the year dot and is local haunt to New Yorkers.
Amanda, London,
We ate the best at Chumleys in Greenwich Village - a former speakeasy with great atmosphere. However, my daughter in New York says the Shake Shack!
J Bailey, St John, Jersey, Channel Islands
Having just returned from NY I can confidently say that the best burger and the best hostess reside at Lounge 47, Long Island City. The food is fabulous and the venue is unpretentious and very cool!
Lisa Richardson, Lichfield, Staffs
The Spotted Pig burger is the best in the city.
lewis, new York, nY
Best burger in town - gotta be the mouth wateringly delicious pork burger served at Lounge 47 - Long island city - YUM!
shireen , england,
Island Burger every time for me. 766 9th Ave.
David, London, England
I visited New York in June this year and found the best burger at Lounge 47, located at 4710, Vernon Blvd, Long Island City. Beats a Manhattan burger every time. //Roger.
Roger Bragg, Birmingham, United Kingdom
"...outsiders, tourists and the bridge-and-tunnel crowd ..."
Ummmm...that's YOU Paul. Please don't spread the word to the rest of your "crowd." Thank you.
Thomas, NYC, USA
Enjoyed The Burger Joint a few times last year but for my money, Corner Bistro's the best.
andygez, Manchester,
It is really quite something to find this burger joint in the posh Parker Meridian. I went last year and really enjoyed the burger. The trick to finding it easily in these upmarket surroundings is to enter by the E 56th Street entrance, through the door and go straight ahead - you will see the brown/ black curtain and there it is, a tiny entrance to the left of the curtain. But don't all go or we will never get a seat.
Moira Buckley, London, England
You will find the best hamburger in Manhattan at a small cafe on the corner of Madison Avenue and E 74th Street. The place is tiny with only a few tables but you also can sit by the counter where you can see the action, but what a result and full of new yorkers !!
T Finch, Eastbourne, United Kingdom
I still go for the Shake Shack burger and frozen concrete any day.
Teresa, New York, NY
Actually the best burgers can be found in a little place in Paris, it's right under your nose. But there is no way I'm letting anyone know! A good burger in Paris? I couldn't believe it either, but these burgers are sumptious.
Marjorie Dawes, Belize,
The Burger joint at Le Parker is the best burger in NYC without doubt. it is truely awesome and so authentic! We stayed at Le Parker in July 2005 for a week and we put on pounds eating the burgers! Another little gem at the Le Parker is the rooftop swimming pool, it is literaly on the 42nd floor and has a walk around sun deck that overlooks central park, the east river and the whole of manatten. Great for a cool off after a busy day siteseeing in the heat of July. Its speciality breakfast restaurant is also famous throughout New York. It Is a great hotel in a great location.
joe peel, Hartshead, West Yorkshire
What about Ruby's at Nolita - pretty good even for a non burger fan and slightly more choice then above, though not much. http://www.rubyscafe.us/
Xuelei Jessica Li, Hong Kong,
best burger in nyc is hands down at Walkers on North Moore. Best Fries too. beware though theres nothing else on the menu worth trying!
bg, nyc, usa
Many of us here in New York, or New Yawk as we like to say, don't even know about this place; and we'd like to keep it that way. Oh well, I guess we can expect to see lots of Brits lining up for a great New York burger.
Now about Grey's Papaya on Broadway and 72nd street. Please don't tell the world about their hot dogs!
Dan Hammer, White Plains, NY