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STAY
Hotel Welcome, Villefranche-sur-Mer
The rooms are small in this simple, inexpensive hotel, but they give directly on to the scenic port. Only breakfast is available, but there are many restaurants near by. Artist Jean Cocteau stayed here in room 22 in the 1950s. Doubles from £75, breakfast £10. Details: 00 33 4 93 76 27 62, www.welcomehotel.com
La Bastide Saint Antoine, Grasse
I always sleep well in this pretty, typically Provençal hote. There is also a contemporary annex, with a stunning apartment for four, including private terrace and whirlpool bath. Eat in the two-Michelin starred restaurant (also a Relais Gourmand), where the six-course aroma menu, including tuna in a jus of squid ink and wild poppy, and roasted fillet of baby duck with broom blossoms, costs £100. The olive oil, made from the 400 trees in the terraced grounds, is delicious. Rooms from £150, breakfast £20.
Details: 00 33 4 9370 9494, www.jacques-chibois.com). Also bookable through Relais & Château (00 800 2000 0002, www.relaischateaux.com)
EAT
Coco Beach, Nice
The best bouillabaisse I have ever tasted, served on a terrace overlooking the sea. Costs £50pp. Details: 00 33 4 93 89 39 26, www.cocobeach-restaurant.com
La Colombe D'Or, St-Paul de Vence
The best ratatouille I have ever eaten. Try the hors d'oeuvres Colombe d'Or (£20), with 15 dishes, including boudin, stuffed courgettes and sardines. Rooms, with antique furniture, plus a Picasso or two, cost from £200, breakfast £10. Details: 00 33 4 9332 8002, www.la-colombe-dor.com
L'Oasis, La Napoule
You wouldn't normally expect such a restaurant with its Japanese influences in the heart of Provence, but this is certainly not a gimmick. It's one of the very best, with two Michelin stars and is also Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux. There is an Eastern or Western menu, costing £120 for eight courses. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Details: 00 33 4 93 49 95 52, www.oasis-raimbault.com
VISIT
Chapelle St Pierre, Villefranche-sur-Mer
See Jean Cocteau's stunningly decorated chapel.
Entry £1.50, closed Mondays.
Confiserie Florian, Le Pont du Loup
As well as the crystallised flowers, the flower jam is wonderful - try the tangerine - and there will soon be a bistro with flower-based ice-cream.
Free tours and tastings daily.
Details: 00 33 4 93 59 32 91, www.confiserieflorian.co.uk
Nice market (Marché Cours Saleya)
Exceptional local produce. Visit Valentin Max for sauces and spreads, Frederique de Poi for glazed fruit, Lavouisier Marcelline and Christiane Luciano for fresh produce. Open daily in the old town.
GETTING THERE
EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies to Nice from eight UK airports with fares from £48 return.
Car hire Website www.carrentals.co.uk has one week's car hire in Nice from £139 in May.
More information
The Riviera www.guideriviera.com
Villefranche-sur-Mer 00 33 4 93 01 73 68, www.villefranche-sur-mer.com
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