The menu offers pork aplenty (three-terrine sandwich, grilled lemongrass pork sausage), offal (crispy pig’s head torchon, veal sweetbreads) and quirky sections such as the list of country hams, their farm of origin carefully noted, shaved to order on an industrial-sized meat slicer in the kitchen. I had pork buns, followed by steak stew with kimchi (Chinese cabbage with various seasonings), and the food was both intensely tasty and good value (I spent £28 on two courses and two beers).

Another possibility, just a few doors from Ko, is the bustling Momofuku Noodle Bar, Chang’s original project, which produces excellent ramen as well as grilled beef tongue, oysters, octopus and other Chang favourites. This one draws long lines at dinner, but at lunch and after 9pm on weekdays, you should have a minimal wait.

The third option is to go around the corner to thePersim-monKimchi House. The menu is full of items that are recognisable from Momofuku - one of the chef/partners is a Chang protégé from the Noodle Bar. Although most of the restaurant is taken up by a communal 20-seat table, there are just four places at the bar, and I snagged one without booking.

The five-course set menu here, which offers some choice, costs less than £20. I went for a spicy fluke sashimi (“Caught off Long Island at four o’clock this morning,” promised chef Eo), sliced pork belly with salted shrimp and a kimchi stew with rice. The food was sometimes challenging, mostly delicious and always filling, although Koreans don’t seem to go to town on dessert (something Momofuku Ko is addressing).

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I did, however, discover one drawback to the proximity involved in counter dining. When I struggled with a large piece of homemade fermented kimchi that had been presented as a free side dish, Eo whipped it backed and sliced it finely, as if it was the bulk that was deterring me. I told him I was simply too full and he looked crestfallen. When the man behind the counter is proprietor, chef and server, there really is no hiding place.

www.momofuku.com , if you’re willing to persevere) is open daily for dinner and on Friday, Saturday and Sunday for lunch. Momofuku Ssam (207 2nd Avenue; 00 1-212 254 3500, www.momofuku.com ) is open daily for lunch and dinner. Momofuku Noodle Bar (171 1st Avenue; 212 777 7773, www.momofuku.com ) is open daily for lunch and dinner. Persimmon Kimchi House (277 East 10th Street; 212 260 9080, www.persimmoncuisine.com ) is open daily for dinner only.

Travel brief

Rob Ryan travelled to New York as a guest of Virgin Atlantic (0870 380 2007) and W The Court (130 East 39th Street, 00 1 212 685 1100, www.whotels.com ; doubles from £160).

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