Rachel Tims
Claim your free 2010 double sided wall chart

Back we go to Africa. Five months at the bottom of the world and I know that I can’t live there. Jasmina’s with me on this one (she’s still easily persuaded) and Kinvy’s not bothered, but Gregor and Nick are still worryingly enthusiastic about the place. They both love the wilds of New Zealand, its fishing, rugby and general manliness. But it is too far removed from the feisty hurly-burly of the world for me. I’m hoping that they will see the light, so to speak, once we get back to Kenya.
Auckland, Perth, Johannesburg, destination Nairobi. We are thrown back into the chaos, pollution and poverty that make this a city to avoid. Huge marabou storks nest in the street trees, grey and grimy, just like the city. Hawkers try to sell pillows, metre rules, plastic coats – but we won’t open our windows in case we are car-jacked. So different from New Zealand. A drawback, I admit, to my pair of Kiwi-idolisers. But there is a special mustiness to the air that we associate with Africa, and we all greet it like an old friend. We are back in a place that we love, even Nick is quick to agree (Gregor is on strike).
I am on the brink of a birthday that ends with a zero and my parents have flown out from Devon to celebrate. This is their first time in Africa, and they are dressed in their new safari gear, head to toe in khaki, ready for the wilderness. The children are ecstatic, their delight in seeing their grandparents is something special and we both take note.
For the Big Day itself, we have booked ourselves on a camel safari – several days’ walk in extreme heat through the emptiness of Samburuland, accompanied by 20 camels and their herdsmen, our fantastic guides Helene Dufresne and Pete Ilsley, a couple of tents and a lot of water.
Kinvy is camel-back for the journey and immediately masters the uncomfortable art of falling asleep on an undulating hump. The Samburu have given Helene a hill that overlooks three dry river beds and a backdrop of barren mountains. My birthday is heralded here in absolute isolation and splendour. We sip Pimms and champagne as we watch a sparkly satellite curve its way across a vast sky. Apart from us, there is nothing of the Western world and we agree that this is staggeringly wonderful.
After the desert, we crave the sea and take a seven-hour hair-raising drive across the back country to Watamu, a ramshackle village that perches untidily on the beautiful Kenyan coast. Locked behind our security grilles that night, clutching the portable panic-button that we were handed on arrival, hugger-mugger with the children since we won’t let them sleep separately caged and padlocked – I’m also worried about Granny and Grandad, but there is no room for them in here with us – I reflect on the fact that I may have had an overly romantic vision of holidaying in this part of Kenya. I can’t help but feel that we would be safer back in Cornwall. Certainly, the neighbours seem less sinister.
A sense of trepidation has begun to creep into our travels. Botched dental treatment in Australia means that I have to go back to England for more, and we have decided to press the pause button while we fleetingly visit schools around the West Country. After a year away this is providing an unwelcome dose of our old reality, but we are acutely aware that we need to make a long-term plan for the children. Schools, friends, a home: decisions about all of these are urgently called for. The list of reasons to live in England is growing, so we have to go back for a look.
Allowing a mere week to resolve some rather monumental issues, we intend to slip in and out, barely noticed, before heading off to the Continent. We have decided, belatedly, to try to imbue in the children some appreciation of the cultural and historical marvels that may eventually be on their doorstep, and we are planning a grand tour. Gregor, in particular, needs convincing. “When are we going back to New Zealand?” he asks. “Not,” I reply through gritted teeth, “for a very long time.”
Read previous dispatches from the Tims’s round-the-world trip at timesonline.co.uk/timsfamily.
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Get ready for the winter sports season, with our resort guides and snow reports
We are backing British business, what is the confidence of the nation and what businesses are succeeding?
Growing demand for energy, oil that is harder to reach and the rise of carbon dioxide emissions. We examine the energy challenge
With rail travel in Europe on the rise, we review the benefits of travelling by train
In this special section we explore new food trends to help improve your dinner party and impress guests
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more



Free luxury travel brochures from specialist tour operators. Find your perfect holiday
Worldwide holidays from Times Selects. View our e-brochure and check out our superb collection of escorted tours
Advertise your home to the best travel audience on Times Online and VacationRentalPeople.com
Shortcuts to help you find topical sections and articles
1998
£47,955
2004
£56,950
Essex
Check your free Experian credit report before applying
Car Insurance
c. £70,000
The Duke of Edinburgh’s Award
Windsor
£123,460 pa
The Law Commission
London
Southwark County Council
£100,000
Home Office
Liverpool
Moments from Battersea Park.
For sale with Winkworth
Find out about shared ownership.
See your free Experian credit report beforehand
Includes flights, accommodation with room upgrades, transfers city tours in Hong Kong and Bangkok.
PremierHolidays.co.uk
For your ultimate tailor-made ski holiday, click here
Get covered on your travels with a superb range of policies at great prices. Visit InsureandGo.com
Choose from the beautiful landscape and tranquil beaches of Oahu, Kauai, Maui & Big Island.
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.