Bumping down a pot-holed track that leads off a remote coastal road in Cornwall, I’m prepared for Godrevy Point’s exposed beach, cliff-top views and solar-powered white lighthouse (said to be the inspiration for Virginia Woolf’s novel).

I’m even hoping to spot a few grey seals, among the many, I’m told, that visit this corner of the North Cornish coast. But what I don’t expect to find is a trendy bar and café, called The Sandsifters, advertising electro nights and fancy dress surf competitions.

Even on a rainy Tuesday in November, it’s teeming with young families and surfer types in woolly jumpers, tapping at their wireless-enabled laptops and ordering lattes and tapas.

The existence and popularity of such a place in this isolated spot hints at the year-round draw of Godrevy Beach and its neighbouring coastline, protected by the National Trust.

The waitress tells me it’s full of families in August; cherished by walkers, climbers, surfers and wildlife lovers the rest of the time. Some come exclusively for the birdlife, to see cormorants and kittiwakes soar above the cliffs.

Next to the Sand Sifters, there’s a surf academy and a music venue hosting jazz nights and visiting DJs. Further down the track, to cater for an older clientele, there’s a National Trust tea room. There, the owner tells me about her no rubbish policy, recycling all she can and asking visitors to take their rubbish home with them.

The day I visit Godrevy, waves crash onto the rocks below. To walk on the beach, even hugging the rocky outcrops is to be battered by salty spray. What might be suitable for buckets and spades half the year is best kept at a brief blustery walk on days like this. I’m reluctant to climb back up to the car park until I’ve seen a seal, but eventually decide they must be hiding elsewhere in a more sheltered spot.

I head back to the Sand Sifters for beer and spicy pumpkin soup, damp but exhilarated.

MORE INFORMATION

GODREVY POINT

What is it?

Wild, rugged patch of North Cornish coastline, protected by the National Trust, popular with wildlife lovers, surfers, climbers and families in the summer. National Trust cafe has a no rubbish policy and the coastline is clearly being conserved and is protected by law and much loved by visitors and locals.

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