As we look out of our cabin window we see our first icebergs (larger than we saw at Spitzbergen last summer but not big yet). It is a week since we left our home in the north of England to set off on this Antarctic adventure. To get to this point we have taken three flights, made three overnight stopovers in London, Buenos Aires & Ushuaia, and two days sailing across the Drake channel on our ship the Akademik Sergei Vavilov.
At 9:30am we take our first Zodiac ride to go ashore at Petermann Island. The trip involves crashing through "bergy bits" (ice chunks of various sizes which are the remains of larger icebergs). We go ashore and step out onto slippery granite rocks to be met by a welcoming committee of Adelie and Gentoo penguins. The island is covered in deep snow and has glaciers higher up. Following the rules about giving a penguin a five metre clearance, Andrew sits down to be on a level with the penguins. They clearly haven't read the rules (they have no land based predators), an Adelie approaches and gives his Wellingtons a thorough inspection. Luckily Lorraine catches this on video. While doing so she is surrounded by inquisitive penguins. Andrew feels that if he sees nothing more the experience has made his trip already.
In the afternoon we are unable to visit the Ukrainian station at Vernadsky due to ice conditions. Instead we go Zodiac cruising through the icebergs at the entrance to the Lemaire channel. We see different types of seal and have a brief glimpse of a Minke whale entering the channel.
Later we traverse the Lemaire in the fine evening sun, What a wonderful world by Nat King Cole is playing in the background, how true. It feels perfect, our glasses are charged with glacier ice that is popping away. It seems a shame to go to dinner as the sun plays with the icebergs. Reluctantly and as the batteries and film are used up we go to dinner.
Tuesday March 8
Today is to be our first step onto the Antarctic continent. The announcement at 6:50am says it is a photographer's dream as the sun is coming up. Temperature -1C, superb views great light, two strata of cloud high and low dress the mountains.
Before we visit the mainland we go ashore at Cuverville Island. It has a large colony of Gentoo penguins, we see some chicks that are still covered in down. We are told that their parents will leave behind any chicks unable to complete their moult, as they must leave before the ice returns.
From the island we go Zodiac cruising. To our surprise (and the crew's) we come across a three-masted barque in full sail. It is called the Europa and is another holiday vessel, which inspires us to think of the original visitors and discoverers of this place.
The ship repositions in Paradise Bay for the afternoon. We land on the Antarctic continent for the first time and climb a snow covered hill above the abandoned Argentine base, Almirante Brown. We get superb views and the opportunity to slide down a home made toboggan run. As we return to the ship a pair of Minke whales surface and circle the ship. Fellow passengers in a later Zodiac are overcome by the experience, as one of the whales surfaces right next to them. Decide to pass on the opportunity to camp on the snow overnight as we are informed you will be lucky to get 3-4 hours sleep.
Wednesday March 9
The campers return having had at least 40kph winds overnight. The only thing that kept the tents on the ground was the weight of the occupants. Despite this the lunch hall is buzzing with happy campers awaiting the next adventure. The on-deck barbecue is cancelled as the weather has turned now and we have strong winds and snow. The planned landing at the British base Port Lockroy is postponed until later in the day. The small size of the base and restriction on access to the breeding areas means the number ashore will be limited to 50 at a time. We go ashore in the second party and there are so many penguins we are unable to keep to the distance rules. We chat to the staff restoring the base to it's original 1950s condition, and they return with us to enjoy a shower and share our evening meal.
Thursday March 10
