Awake to a snowy day, the flakes are perfect picture book quality, light and fluffy. This morning we go on a Zodiac cruise in Paradise Bay where the primary intention is to visit the Chinstrap penguin and cormorant colonies. In addition we enjoy a good display by humpback whales in amongst our Zodiacs and kayaks.

In the afternoon we cruise Wilhemina Bay, usually a guaranteed spot for whale encounters. Visibility is poor due to snow conditions but eventually we see a fur seal on an ice flow and a group of Minke whales. Back on board we spend time on the bridge. As we leave the bay we are lucky enough to spot humpback whales. The captain kindly turns and circles to allow us a longer look.

Friday March 11

This morning we sail through Neptune's Bellows, the narrow entrance, to the caldera of Deception Island. This is a dormant volcano where the sea has flooded the crater forming an excellent harbour. Whalers used it, and their equipment and graves are along the shore, some having been damaged by recent volcanic activity. The black volcanic sand is being covered by drifting snow as we walk to a view point called Neptune's Window. Returning to the shore against the wind and snow we have our nearest experience of what Antarctic weather can be like for explorers.

Amongst the black and white landscape black rocks reveal themselves to be very animated fur seals, playing amongst half buried barrels and boats. The crew dig a pit on the shoreline to take advantage of the thermal activity and one brave lady takes a dip. We test the water by hand only and it feels like bathwater temperature.

Back on board we head to our final shore excursion at Half Moon Island, a rugged coast like Cornwall (but with icebergs). The weather improves, and we enjoy a long visit to a large colony of Chinstraps and cormorants. We are lucky enough to see fur seals and a solitary Weddell seal. The Chinstraps acknowledge us but are less interested than the Gentoo and Adelie's had been. As we leave a sole Gentoo wanders onto the beach to peck the lifejackets and wave a flipper as we complete our final landing of the trip.

Back on-board we discover that today an Australian couple had got married on the bridge. This tested the Russian captains language skills!

At 18:30 we toast the Antarctic continent as we turn North and head for home.

NEED TO KNOW

It's a long way from the UK to Ushuaia where we joined the ship. Flight times add up to approx 16 hours. For novice travellers like ourselves who have only been to Europe this was a major expedition.

Make time to enjoy Buenos Aires. We would highly recommend the tango show at La Ventana; a city tour to include La Boca district and shopping on Florida, the pedestrian street.

The mountains that are the start of the Andes surround Ushuaia. The adjacent national park is wild and beautiful. Personally we much prefer open areas to cities so it would be Ushuaia & Tierra Del Fuego that we would have liked to spend more time in.

A lot is said about crossing the Drake Passage from Ushuaia to the continent, do you get the 'shake' or 'lake'? We had a reasonable shake going out but a lake coming back. Previous trips had it much worse!

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