IT’S 5.45am in South Luangwa National Park. In the copper-grey dawn we gather around a smouldering campfire and prepare for the ultimate bush experience — a walking safari to track the park’s heavy brigade of elephant, buffalo, hippo and possibly lion.

Our guide, Daudi Njobvu, explains what to do if we come across a four-legged juggernaut — stay still and remain calm. Njobvu’s bush knowledge is legendary, but now he manages Nsefu Camp for Robin Pope Safaris, which seeks to develop local staff.

Robin Pope came to South Luangwa in the early 1970s and was one of the pioneers of Luangwa tourism. The park remains a largely unspoilt wilderness, with high densities of wildlife and relatively few tourists.

Pope and his wife, Jo, operate three small, authentic bush camps, Nkwali, Tena Tena and Nsefu. The food is better than that served in many five-star hotels, and the camps are set in the shade of giant ebony trees overlooking the meandering Luangwa River.

Each camp has between six and ten circular brick and thatch huts — or large, airy tents in the case of Tena Tena — with huge beds and private, open-air showers. Most guests spend a couple of nights in each camp, and elephant, or in my case a leopard, can often be seen walking along on the far bank of the river.

The daily routine involves being woken by gentle pre-dawn drumming before a three-hour game drive or walk before it gets too hot. Guests share news of game sightings over breakfast back in camp. An alfresco lunch is usually followed by a nap before a night drive in an open-top vehicle looking for leopard, lion and Pels fishing owls.

Ten years ago 80 per cent of safari guides in the valley were white. Now 80 per cent are Zambian. Njobvu is an eloquent advocate of the company’s philosophy: “We don’t treat people as guests or employees here, but as part of one big family.”

During our pre-walk safety talk Njobvu explains that in the event of any confrontation with dangerous wildlife the armed scout accompanying us will “look after” the animal, and he will “look after” us. He explains that the best response is to remain still and calm at all times — though I find myself inadvertently looking at the other guests to assess who might be the slowest runner!

A walking safari is a different experience to being in a vehicle, and requires deeper awareness of your surroundings. During our walk we track lion and buffalo, listen to alarm calls indicating the whereabouts of big game, identify birds and learn how to stay downwind of Puku antelope to avoid them smelling us and being alarmed.

On the way back into camp I learn about Njobvu’s family. He has four children, and from what he acknowledges is a “well-paid job” he supports a further ten from his extended family through school. In this he is far from unique.

Having lost both parents, Bertram Njobvu left school at 14 with no qualifications. One day, three and a half years ago, he wandered out of the bush into the camp and started work as a casual labourer. From his wages he saved up to buy petrol, and his uncle taught him to drive. He is now learning the Latin names of birds and grasses in preparation for his guiding examination.

As well as offering safaris, Robin Pope Safaris (RPS) can arrange for tourists to experience authentic village life of the Kunda people either on a day visit or for an overnight stay at Kawaza village.

My guide to the village is Mary Mtiti. Mary’s father died and her mother is disabled. Now 25, she is one of 12 children, seven of whom are still alive. Like many young Zambians Mary wanted a smaller family and has just one child, however she also looks after four orphaned nieces and nephews. HIV/Aids casts a long shadow over Zambia.

Times recommends

• The three best routes to the Med
• How to cash in on your holiday money
• 10 tips for the perfectly packed suitcase