During my day in the village I lark around with the children and a football made out of crushed paper tied up with string. If you stay overnight — in a traditional African mud hut with the comforts of a good mattress, mosquito net and Western-style lavatory — you sample daily life, pick cotton, feed children, play football, and simply sit and talk. I met Elimina Banda, who was born before dates of birth were recorded. She said: “I am happy to see whites in the village. There was a time when I was scared of them but not now.”

A day visit to Kawaza village costs about £9, overnight about £23. From this, guides such as Mary, and the drummers and dancers who put on a spectacular performance for visitors under the moonlight, are paid. The balance goes into community projects such as Kawaza village basic school.

Since my last visit six years ago the school has been transformed. Then there were 327 pupils and four teachers. Now there are 551 pupils and 16 teachers. Zambia pays five times as much in debt repayments as it spends on education and the improvements to the school have in a large part been made possible by RPS, which pays for eight of the teachers, sponsors 51 children and has built new classrooms with help from donations.

The deputy head, Maxwell Chimba, says: “The school would be in a deplorable state without RPS.”

The jobs created through the tourism industry extend beyond the safari camps and village tourism. Fourteen years ago, Gillie da Motta began to paint and create items, including stunning cushion covers and bedcovers for friends. As she had no power she devised her own organic manufacturing process.

Her company, Tribal Textiles, now employs 162 men and women and creates handmade products for sales to tourists and for export.

Despite having just had a baby, and never having planned to create a business, Gillie says: “There can be no turning back: my responsibility to the people here is huge.”

After eight days talking to villagers, I worked out that a holiday with Robin Pope Safaris directly benefits 308 local people — see box (left).

Indirectly, thousands more people benefit from the trips. There are about 1,280 extended family members of the RPS staff in addition to a doctor funded by RPS treating hundreds of patients; 150 villagers at Kawaza; extended families of 16 teachers; 160 staff at Tribal Textiles and their families who benefit if you buy from them; and 200 park staff who are supported in part by park entry fees — and that’s without including the shops selling goods to those employed in tourism.

What makes Robin Pope Safaris’ — and others like them in Zambia, such as Kapani Lodge and Tafika camp — contribution to their communities even more remarkable is that while it is a profitable business, it is far from being a risk-free venture.

Jo Pope says: “I could make more money selling used tyres.We are in the business of making a profit, but also in the business of offering clients life-changing experiences.”

Page 2: Who benefited and Need to know ()

Who benefited from Justin's safari in Zambia?

160 permanent and temporary safari staff
24 workmen building a new family lodge
15 people employed in transporting goods
15 performers and guides
51 sponsored children
16 teachers
3 airport baggage handlers
8 trackers
3 local fruit sellers
3 plumbers and electricians
4 weavers
3 thatchers
2 tailors

Need to know

Getting there: Justin Francis travelled with Sunvil Africa (020-8232 9777, www.sunvil.co.uk/africa), which offers an 11-day trip, including eight nights at Robin Pope Safaris’ camps, from £1,726.

A 12-day trip, including eight nights at Norman Carr’s camps, such as Kapani Lodge (www.normancarrsafaris.com), costs from £2,052. An 11-day trip, including Tafika camp, is from £2,341. All prices, which are per person, are based on two sharing and include BA flights, internal flights and transfers, accommodation, meals, drinks, game drives and guided walks.

Further information: Robin Pope Safaris and Kawaza Village School Fund (www.robinpopesafaris.net); Tribal Textiles (00 260 6 245137, www.africantribalcrafts.com).

Justin Francis is co-founder of www.responsibletravel.com.

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