Jeremy Lazell
Attend an evening with Andre Agassi

There are two buzz words in the travel industry right now, and they’re not “bon voyage” – they’re “credit crunch”.
Yep, times are tough, but that doesn’t mean your holiday has to suffer. Botswana’s Okavango Delta too pricey for you this year? Head to the Caprivi Strip in Namibia instead: same game, same boat trips, yours for less than half the cash.
Val d’Isère out of the question? Head down the valley to Ste Foy: tiny resort, tiny prices, big reputation among local ski guides and powder hounds, who go there on their days off.
So, look beyond the obvious and shop outside the box – or let us do it for you. From sailing to skiing, from Croatia to the Canaries, we give you the smart way to the best holidays.
— Prices at the start of each section are per person, per day, and include flights, transfers and car hire
ITALIAN VILLA
DON’T go to Tuscany – £121
DO go to Umbria – £71
Imagine Siena without the crowds, Chianti without the Brits, Pisa without the street vendors trying to flog you belts and watches. Actually, don’t imagine it – visit it. It’s called Umbria, it borders southeast Tuscany and, if it doesn’t have the spires of San Gimignano or the cypress-lined avenues of Chianti, it does have a string of ludicrously lovely medieval hill towns, among them Assisi, Spello and Bevagna. It’s Italy – it’s contractually obliged to be gorgeous. It’s just not called Tuscany, so they’re not allowed to rip you off and herd you about like sheep.
How to do it: Invitation to Tuscany (020 8742 8552, www.invitationtotuscany.com) has Castelonchio, the three-bedroom wing of an old stone farmhouse with a pool, overlooking Lake Trasimeno in Umbria, for £1,471 a week in high season; the comparable Il Mulinaccio in the heart of Chianti costs £2,318. A week’s hire of a seven-seat car starts at £435. Flights on Ryanair to Forli (currently about £180 in July; www.ryanair.com) are often cheaper than those to Tuscany’s gateway, Pisa (£390).
CLASSY SAFARI
DON’T go to Botswana – £464
DO go to Namibia – £182
We love the Okavango Delta – a picture-perfect patchwork of islands with vast herds of game and more than 400 species of bird – but the Botswanans don’t half make you pay for the privilege. It’s simple economics: the government restricts the number of guests the camps can take, so top-dollar luxury is the norm. Throw in the fact that you have to fly in, and what you get is a cocktail of silly-money prices and elitist exclusivity that acts like catnip on the super-rich. Prices have quadrupled in the past five years – £600 per person per night is not unheard of.
You don’t have to be super-rich, though. Stay north of the border, in Namibia, at the top of the delta “panhandle”, the Caprivi Strip: same game, same delta, same boat trips to see elephants and buffalo, all for far less cash. While the super-rich might balk at the two-or three-day drive from Windhoek, stopping off in Okonjima and Etosha breaks up the journey – and makes it a proper safari.
How to do it: Audley Travel (01993 838500, www.audleytravel.com) has 13 nights, self-drive, to the Caprivi Strip, via Etosha, from £2,550, including all meals and game drives in the Caprivi, car hire and flights with Air Namibia to Windhoek. A comparable package in Botswana starts at £6,500.
EURO SUN
DON’T go to mainland Spain – £61
DO go to the Canary Islands – £49 (with savings of at least 10% on food, drink
and fuel once you’re there)
Travel inside the eurozone this summer and you might have to remortgage the house, but if you head to Spain – the cheapest eurozone country, according to a recent report – you might just manage a pud with your paella.
Better still, head to the Canary Islands. Whereas food, booze and fuel is taxed at 16.5% on the mainland, on the Canaries it’s just 4.5% – and government import subsidies lower prices even further. Mahou beer costs £1.20 in Madrid, where they actually brew and bottle the stuff; in Lanzarote, it’s 95p. It’s madness, a self-caterer’s promised land – don’t try to understand it, just order that second rioja and enjoy.
How to do it: flights are much of a muchness, despite the disparity in distance, with fares on Monarch Airlines (www.monarch.co.uk) to both Lanzarote and Alicante ranging from £130 in mid-July to £223 in mid-August. Premier Holidays (0800 047 0400, www.premier-holidays.co.uk) has Villa Rosato, a three-bedroom villa with a huge garden, just five minutes’ walk from Puerto Calero marina on Lanzarote, from £996 per week per villa. The comparable Villa Estrella on the Costa Blanca starts at £1,488.
OPERA SHORT BREAK
DON’T go to Verona – £318
DO go to Bregenz – £228
It is hard to argue with Verona’s opera festival: its arena, a slightly scaled-down version of the Colosseum, is magical. It’s unmiked (the acoustics are fine, if a little patchy), and the passionate audience is as engrossing as the performers. Traditionally, everyone lights a candle as the opera begins – you don’t need to know your Tosca from your Traviata to feel your spine tingle when that happens.
Spine-tingling comes a lot cheaper, however, over the Alps in the Austrian town of Bregenz, where a floating, 7,000-seat open-air stage – the Seebühne (lake stage) – on the shores of Lake Constance provides one of the most dramatic settings in the opera world. Nothing matches the heart-stopping moment when Tosca’s lover, Cavaradossi, is shot – and plops into the lake.
How to do it: JMB Travel (01452 715370, www.jmb-travel.co.uk) has two nights in a four-star hotel in Bregenz for £414, B&B, including flights with British Airways to Zurich and tickets for a performance of Tosca at the Seebühne; airport transfers are £43pp. A comparable package in Verona is £636, including transfers.
SWANKY SKIING
DON’T go to Val d’Isère – £422
DO go to Ste Foy – £162
Val d’Isère has some of the best chalets in Europe, with access to 186 miles of piste, 154 runs, 89 lifts, two snowparks and nearly 25,000 acres of off-piste. Great... but who could possibly need all that? Too bad. You pay for it, anyway, with lift passes (£175) and ski hire (£180) among the dearest on the skiing planet. Not that it puts anyone off. There are 27,000 guest beds in Val d’Isère – stand in line for the Grande Motte funiculaire of a Sunday and you’ll swear most of those guests are ahead of you in the queue.
Which is why you should go 25 minutes down the valley to Ste Foy. It’s tiny – just four lifts, 20-odd miles of pistes, a handful of cafes – and the best skiing holiday I’ve had in 30 years. Cut-price (lifts £136, ski hire £80) and crowdless (just 3,500 guest beds), it has north-facing slopes that hold snow even in fallow years and is a favourite with French families and local instructors, who come from nearby Les Arcs, Tignes and Val d’Isère itself for the empty off-piste.
How to do it: Venture Ski (0870 242 4881, www.venture-ski.com) has seven nights, half-board, at Chalet Les Ormes (sleeps eight) for £6,776 in March; the same week in Chalet Valpierre (sleeps eight) in Val d’Isère costs £18,720 with Descent International (020 7384 3854, www.descent.co.uk). Airlines flying to Geneva include EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Swiss (www.swiss.com). Airport transfers cost £75pp for Ste Foy and £220 for Val d’Isère.
EXTREME SPORTS
DON’T go to New Zealand – £1,185, including “awesome foursome” (£195) and
flights (£990 with Air New Zealand)
DO go to Scotland – £135, including multi-activity day and train fare
Queenstown in New Zealand is home to the “awesome foursome” – that’s bungee-jumping, whitewater rafting, a helicopter ride and a high-speed jetboat trip on the Shotover River. It’s paradise for the fun-loving, back-flipping adrenaline junkie, but a hell of a long way to go for a heart-stopping quick fix.
Closer to home, Chamonix will give you all the paragliding, climbing and rafting your pumping heart could hope for, but why bother with the flights, the transfers and the French for “I’m too young to die” when on our very shores – in Scotland’s central Highlands – lie the two new kids on the adventure-sports block, Dunkeld and Aviemore.
How to do it: in Dunkeld, about an hour’s drive north of Edinburgh, the go-to guys are Nae Limits (0845 017 8177, www.naelimits.co.uk), who offer a ridiculous all-you-can-eat buffet of adrenaline sports, including rafting, tubing, rap running (like SAS abseiling), canyoning, cliff-jumping and sphering in and around the Tay, Tummel and Orchy rivers and the wonderfully craggy Lower Bruar canyon. Multi-activity days (two activities and lunch) cost £90. National Express East Coast (0845 722 5225, www.nationalexpresseastcoast.com) has return rail fares from London to Dunkeld from £45.
SAILING
DON’T go to the Caribbean – £121
DO go to Croatia – £74
Fanned by friendly 20-knot winds, and sheltering yachts from the prevailing southeasterly swell, the British Virgin Islands are justifiably the must-have stamp on any sailor’s log. This doesn’t come cheap, however: sailing’s a millionaire’s game, and beach bars out there know it. Throw in transatlantic flights and you may start to wonder if there’s an alternative.
There is: Croatia. For a start, it’s out of the eurozone – a seafood platter and beer won’t set you back more than a tenner. And you’ll have more than 1,000 islands to sail between, with those wonderfully preserved walled cities to moor beside, as well as some of the warmest, most sheltered waters in Europe.
How to do it: Sunsail (0844 463 6817, www.sunsail.co.uk) has seven nights’ sailing in a six-berth yacht, from Dubrovnik to the Elafiti islands, Mljet and Korcula, from £519, including flights with Thomsonfly to Dubrovnik and transfers; meals not included, skipper £95 per day. A comparable package to the British Virgin Islands costs £849.
LUXURY INDIAN TRAIN
DON’T go on the Palace on Wheels – £449
DO go on the Golden Chariot – £320
If there were ever a case of paying for a name, it’s for the Palace on Wheels. Built for Rajputs and viceroys (with every refurb, it looks more and more like a maharajah’s harem), it does a seven-day loop of Rajasthan that’s like a Who’s Who of India’s tourist icons. Taj Mahal, Jaipur, Udaipur, they’re all there – and, boy, do they cost.
Though hardly a snip by Indian rail prices, the Golden Chariot is considerably cheaper than its more celebrated counterpart. It has more luxury than you could possibly need, including WiFi and satellite television, a lounge car styled on Mysore Palace, even a gym car with ayurvedic massage rooms. On a loop of Karnataka from Bangalore, there are stops at the magnificent ruins of Hampi and the exquisite temples of Belur and Halebid, with a day each in Mysore, Goa and the Nagarhole National Park, home to wild elephants, tigers and more than 300 species of bird.
How to do it: Bales Worldwide (0845 057 0600, www.balesworldwide.com) has seven nights on the Golden Chariot and one in Bangalore for £2,560; seven nights on the Palace on Wheels, with one in Delhi, cost £3,590. Both packages include flights, transfers and meals on board.
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