PARIS
Jonathan Derbyshire
7pm Start with preprandial drinks at Le Baron Rouge (Rue Théophile
Roussel; 00 33-1 43 43 14 32), a delightfully rustic and convivial bar à
vins tucked away in a side street in the 12th arrondissement. Choose your
wine from an extravagantly long list and drink it by the glass,
gesticulating wildly like the locals, standing either at the zinc bar or by
one of several upturned barrels on the pavement outside.
9pm Close by is Le Square Trousseau, a brasserie popular with Parisian
media types as much for its glorious belle époque interior as for its
cuisine (Rue Antoine Vollon; 1 43 43 06 00; £49 for two). A 10-minute walk
into the 11th arrondissement, Bistrot Paul Bert is unprepossessing but
serves wholesome traditional fare. Steaks are served one way: rare (18 Rue
Paul Bert; 1 43 72 24 01; dinner for two £56).
11pm You’ll need to walk off your dessert, so stroll up the hill to
Ménilmontant, the 20th-arrondissement quartier that’s replaced Oberkampf as
the home of Paris’s hippest bars. Many host live music: among the best are
Studio de l’Ermitage (Rue de l’Ermitage; 1 44 62 02 86, www.studio-ermitage.com
) and La Maroquinerie (Rue Boyer; 1 40 33 35 05, www.lamaroquinerie.fr
), where the emphasis is on indie rock.
1am Though you wouldn’t guess it from looking at its shabby exterior,
Café des Sports (Rue de Ménilmontant; 1 46 36 48 18), in the 20th
arrondissement, is home to one of Paris’s hottest dancefloors, packed for
free DJ sessions most nights. And if you’re danced off your feet, you can
cool off in the bar of Le Colimaçon restaurant opposite (Rue de
Ménilmontant; 1 40 33 10 40), until it shuts at 2am.
Where to sleep: Hôtel Bourg Tibourg (1 42 78 47 39, www.hotelbourgtibourg.com
) has a fantastic location, smack in the middle of the Marais, and
extraordinary neo-gothic decor by Jacques Garcia. Doubles start at £153. If
you have exacting standards when it comes to interior design, but are on a
budget, try Le Quartier République, Le Marais (1 48 06 64 97, www.lequartierhotelrm.com
). It’s part of Franck Altruie’s chain of affordable boutique hotels, with
doubles from £64.
Getting there: by train, with Eurostar (01233 617575, www.eurostar.com
) or by plane. Airlines flying to Paris include BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com
), Air France (0870 142 4343, www.airfrance.co.uk
) and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ).
MILAN
Jan Fuscoe
7pm The Milanese version of happy hour is much more relaxing than our
desperate booze cruise. Until about 9.30pm they sup cocktails and munch on
buffets that are served – often free – at the bar. Join in at Bhangrabar
(Corso Sempione, Metro Duomo; 00 39-02 34 93 44 69, www.bhangrabarmilano.com
), where DJs play soul, jazz and rare groove, and Indian treats are dished
up with aperitifs.
9pm Those nibbles have just warmed you up, so now it’s time to eat.
Head for Cracco-Peck with its two Michelin stars and consistently good
reviews of its saffron risotto and breaded veal (Via Victor Hugo; 02 87 67
74). Alternatively, for the Peck magic without the formality and high
prices, try the more casual Peck Italian Bar, which is popular with young
locals (Via Cesare Cantu; 02 86 93 01 7).
11pm Since it opened in 2000, the Sheraton’s Diana Garden Bar (Viale
Piave; 02 20 58 1, www.starwoodhotels.com
) has become the place for the Milanese fashion elite to gather. Sip
aperitifs while gazing at the catwalk shows that are staged inside during
Fashion Week in January and June. In summer the garden is fabulous, but the
place, part of the Sheraton Diana Majestic Hotel, is also lively in the
winter.
1am One of the oldest and best clubs in Milan is Plastic (admission
£7-£14 inc one drink; Viale Umbria; 02 73 39 96, www.thisisplastic.com
). Depending on the night, there’s funky jazz, electro, rock, Italian trash
or pop. Weekdays, the ex-industrial Alcatraz (admission £8 inc one drink;
Via Valtellina; 02 69 01 63 52, www.alcatrazmilano.com
) is a top music venue. At weekends it turns into the largest dance space in
the city.
Where to sleep: for real style points, rent a three-room suite at
3Rooms (02 62 61 63, www.3rooms-10corsocomo.com
) from £174. It’s above Milan’s multipurpose style emporium, 10 Corso Como,
and is suitably slick inside. More budget is the charming B&B Alle
Meraviglie (02 80 51 02 3, www.allemeraviglie.it
), with doubles from £101, set just off Via Dante, with silk curtains and
fresh flowers.
Getting there: Linate is six miles from the city centre. Airlines
flying there include EasyJet (www.easyjet.com
), British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com
) and Alitalia (0871 424 1424, www.alitalia.co.uk
). Malpensa and Bergamo are 30 miles away – Jet2 (0871 226 1737, www.jet2.com
) and Ryanair (0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com).
AMSTERDAM
Steve Korver
7pm To get your evening off on the right foot, head to the historic,
standing-room-only Wynand Fockink (Pijlsteeg; 00 31-20 639 2695, www.wynand-fockink.nl
) for an early-evening aperitif. Its epic menu of liqueurs and jenevers
(Belgian gin) is quite something. Near a windmill, Brouwerij t IJ (Funenkade
(20 320 1786, www.brouwerijhetij.nl
) offers tradition, home-brewed beer and a terrace.
9pm Deal with the munchies by scaling the heights of Dutch cuisine –
Indonesian. There are two worth trying: Tempo Doeloe (Utrechtsestraat; 20
625 6718, www.tempodoeloerestaurant.nl
; main courses £13.50-£17) is the posh one, but its half-price neighbour
Tujuh Maret (Utrechtsestraat; 20 427 9865, www.tujuh-maret.nl
) also rates – try the mixed rijstafel, a small plate selection of 10 or so
different dishes.
11pm There are several relatively new joints catering to a fun – but
not too full-on – night out: Sugar Factory (Lijnbaansgracht; 20 626 5006, www.sugarfactory.nl
) mixes wacky performances with quirky groove-orientated DJs. Funk and
hip-hop at Bitterzoet (Spuistraat; 20 521 3001, www.bitterzoet.com
); Studio 80 (Rembrandtplein; 20 521 8333, www.studio-80.nl
) for electro and dirty disco.
1am Clubbers after all-nighters should head to the rightly legendary
Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a; 20 531 8181, www.melkweg.nl
) or Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8; 20 626 4521, www.paradiso.nl
), an eclectic space in a converted church – both are cool, check locally
for DJs. Jazz hounds are best directed to the Bimhuis (Piet Heinkade 3; 20
788 2188, www.bimhuis.nl ) for decent
live music.
Where to sleep: the Grand Hotel Amrath Amsterdam (20 552 0000, www.amrathamsterdam.nl
), near Centraal station, is a new monumental hotel housed in the first
example of the Amsterdam school of architecture, and includes epic interiors
along with all mod cons; doubles from £314. For something more designer
quirky and with a range of one- to five-star rooms, ranging from £66 to
£314, Lloyd Hotel (20 561 3604, www.lloydhotel.com
) is located in the up-and-coming eastern docklands and a 10-minute tram
ride from Centraal station.
Getting there: airlines flying to Amsterdam include KLM (0870 507 4074, www.klm.com
), BMI (0870 607 0555, www.flybmi.com )
and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ).
BERLIN
Dave Rimmer
7pm Oranienburgerstrasse, in Mitte, on Berlin’s tourist trail, has
discreet and worthwhile joints scattered among brasher attractions. One is
Ambulance (Oranienburger Strasse 27; no phone), offering excellent cocktails
in red and cream lounge surroundings. For martinis in a more
self-consciously stylish atmosphere, try the bar at Shiro i Shiro
(Rosa-Luxemburgstrasse 11; 00 49-30 9700 4790, www.shiroishiro.com
).
9pm The place for dinner is the Grill Royal (Friedrichstrasse 105b; 30
2887 9288; main course £14) – expansive, modernist, down on the banks of the
River Spree. If you want quieter, more picturesque surroundings and an
innovative modern European menu stressing local ingredients, go for Maxwell
(Bergstrasse 22; 30 280 7121, main course £10) and its wonderful neo-gothic
courtyard.
11pm As an aid to digestion, you’ll be wanting a drink. Greenwich
(Gipsstrasse 5; 30 2809 5566) is suitably upmarket, offering a long bar, a
similarly lengthy aquarium and decent digestifs. But if you’re after cosy
and casual, try Alt-Berlin (Münzstrasse 23; no phone), an old-style Berlin
Eckkneipe (corner pub). Peering in the front door at the bar, it isn’t
immediately apparent that there’s a beautiful saloon in the back.
1am Bohannon (admission £7; Dircksenstrasse 40; 30 6950 5287) is a
great basement, where local-boys-made-(very)-good Jazzanova often play when
they’re in town. As night turns to morning, head for the former industrial
waterfront district of Friedrichshain and the Berghain/Panorama Bar
(admission £10; Am Wriezener Bahnhof; no phone), a techno palace in an old
East German power station.
Where to sleep: the nononsense hotel-apartments at Lux 11 (30 936 2800, www.lux-eleven.de
) are stylish, comfortable and well located. Each has a sitting area,
kitchen and raised shower, from £94. Or there’s Q! (30 810 0660, www.loock-hotels.com
), where both bed and bath are part of the same wooden unit, so you can roll
into bed after a soak. The vibe here is young and friendly, and there’s a
beautiful Japanese-styled spa. Doubles are from £90.
Getting there: airlines flying to Berlin include Air Berlin (0871 500
0737, www.airberlin.com ), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com
), BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com ), Ryanair
(0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com ) and
Jet2 (0871 226 1737, www.jet2.com ).
BELGRADE
Tome Popper
7pm Not even grandma and the kids miss happy hour in Belgrade – come
the evening, whole families fill outdoor cafes along Kneza Mihaila, the old
town’s bustling, pedestrian-only thoroughfare. Bars abound here and on
nearby streets such as Obilicev venac – try OK.NO (Obilicev venac 17; 00
38-1 11 262 9072; 9am-2am), where the decor has a coal-mining theme, with
pickaxes and miners’ lamps on the walls.
9pm Serbs love grilled meats. The burger-shaped pljeskavica or
cevapcici , made with minced lamb, beef and pork, are favourites. You’ll
find them on street-corner stalls – just follow your nose. For classier, and
classic, Serbian meals, try the pretty, cobblestoned, old bohemian quarter
of Skadarlija, where Tri Sesira (Skadarska 29; 1 11 324 7501; 11am-1am)
serves hearty, meaty fare and fish.
11pm Time to take in the modern side of town: the bustling and
tree-lined Strahinjica Bana is Belgrade’s busiest bar strip and has plenty
of decent places to drink. Two that attract the cream of the glamour crowd,
with crisp decor, good menus and excellent cocktails, are Scena (Strahinjica
Bana 17; 1 11 218 5366) and Ipanema (Strahinjica Bana 68; 1 11 328 3069;
noon-midnight).
1am It’s party time on dozens of adjacent boats docked in two patches
of riverside in Novi Belgrade. Crowds throng Povetarac (Savski kej bb), near
the Gazela Bridge, as it attracts bigger-name DJs, but try the others, too –
just hop on board. In the old town, there’s usually a mob at Andergraund
(Pariska 1a; 1 11 262 5681, www.andergraund.com
), a nightlife institution, in the catacombs of scenic Kalemegdan Citadel.
Where to sleep: two intimate five-star hotels in the heart of town that
will pamper you in 19th-century splendour are the Aleksandar Palas (1 330
5300, www.aleksandarpalas.com )
and Hotel Admiral Club (1 303 8260, www.hoteladmiralclubbeograd.com
). Rooms go from about £120 to as much as £370 for a suite, and the pricier
rooms are extremely spacious and furnished with gorgeous antiques. Both have
good bars and restaurants. An affordable, comfortable, central three-star is
the Hotel Splendid (1 323 5444). Its somewhat spartan doubles start at £24.
Getting there: fly to Belgrade from Heathrow with JAT Airways (020 7629
2007, www.jatlondon.com ) or BA (0870
850 9850, www.ba.com ).
NEW YORK
Helen Yun
7pm Drink a toast to the setting of the sun and also to the Big Apple’s
inimitable skyline at the largest rooftop bar in the metropolis: 230 Fifth
(230 Fifth Avenue at 27th Street, 20th floor; 00 1-212 725 4300) gives you
the opportunity to combine excellent martinis (priced at £15 for two) with
jaw-dropping views of the Empire State and MetLife buildings.
9pm The most coveted table for two is at Vanity Fair editor Graydon
Carter’s exclusive supper club, the Waverly Inn (16 Bank Street at Waverly
Place; no phone; dinner £34 for two). But you’re unlikely to get in, so try
the 19-seat, Spanish-inflected Degustation (239 E 5th Street at Second
Avenue; 212 979 1012; £24 for two for dinner), a better bet for those who’d
rather be impressed by their food than by their neighbour.
11pm Fancy a gig? The Highline Ballroom (431 W 16th Street, between
Ninth and Tenth Avenues; 212 414 5994, www.highlineballroom.com
) has minimal decor, an impressive stage, state-of-the-art PA and a
commitment to cutting-edge music. It offers a truly varied mix of live acts,
readings and festivals, from David Bowie to James Blunt, via Moby or Kanye
West’s DJ, A-Trak.
1am It’s been hours since your last cocktail. There are some
meticulously crafted, and consequently highly potent, libations on offer at
B Flat (277 Church Street, between Franklin and White Streets; 212 219 2970;
£12 for two drinks). Once you’re buzzing, head for slick lounge APT (419 W
13th Street; 212 414 4245, www.aptwebsite.com
; £15 for two drinks). Excellent interior, cool bar staff and big-name DJs.
Where to sleep: on a newly trendy strip in the East Village, once lined
with flophouses, the recently opened Bowery Hotel (212 505 9100, www.theboweryhotel.com
) offers an opulent bar and chic restaurant, along with posh doubles
starting at £256. If you’d rather not blow all your cash on lodgings, try
the more modest but centrally located Pod Hotel (212 355 0300, www.thepodhotel.com
), where doubles cost £121 and up.
Getting there: airlines flying to New York include Virgin Atlantic
(0870 380 2007, www.virgin-atlantic.com
), BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com ),
Continental (0845 607 6760, www. continental.com) and American Airlines (020
7365 0777, www.americanairlines.co.uk
).
