Gareth Scurlock
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Berlin, Amsterdam, Barcelona - where next?
If you're into clubbing holidays and have done the usual suspects, Serbia's capital Belgrade has come on to the radar quickly in recent years, developing an exciting, ever-changing cobweb of clubs and bars.
The music scene caters to all-comers, from rock and jazz clubs to Balkan beats and turbo folk - a curious mix of electronic beats and gypsy or Turkish-influenced folk singing that's worth experiencing at least once.
You can also find the best in underground electronica, techno and house music, with venues tempting a regular stream of international guest DJs and artists.
Belgrade is different enough to enjoy daytime around the city before hitting the town for an evening of revelry.
Wandering the city offers a welcome change to the pristine facade of Europe's chocolate-box old towns, with the faded grandeur of the few pre-20th century buildings sitting awkwardly alongside concrete communist-era structures.
The recently completed marble exterior of the huge St Sava Orthodox church glistens next to other buildings while the National Theatre, Old Royal Palace, university buildings and National Museum (closed for renovation) provide some older highlights.
High on a hill at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, the Kalemegdan Fortress dates back to pre-Roman times - the current walls were contructed to the 15th and 16th centuries. The views are tremendous and it houses a beautiful park, one of many green spaces across the city.
The Hotel Moscow, open but currently being refurbished to 5-star standards, is one of the most beautiful art noveau buildings, dating back to 1906. It sits near the pedestrianised Knez Mihailova Street with its plethora of designer clothes shops attesting to the emergence of the nouveau-rich, thought the country is still economically crippled.
The good news for tourists is that the city is incredibly cheap by our standards. Main courses in the best restaurants are £5-£10, killer cocktails in the coolest bars are £2.50-5, while a beer should set you back between £1 and £1.50 depending on the venue. And the local brews (try Jelen Pivo or neighbouring Montenegro's Nikšicko) tend to be far superior to and cheaper than the foreign imports.
While the people are some of the friendliest in the world, the one complaint I heard is that they are still being punished after suffering enough because of Slobodan Milosevic. Economic sanctions were accompanied by travel restrictions, many of which are still in place - it's very hard for residents to obtain visas to visit the EU, for instance.
To try to simplify the situation in one of the world's most historically complex countries would be foolish - it's best not to engage in political conversation, plenty blame the West for 1999, but visitors receive a very warm welcome.
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I am grateful to the Times for sponsoring and publishing this article. I got tired of telling my international friends what a great place Belgrade is for its food, music, culture and nightlife but most importantly for its people! Now I just send them the link to this article. tx,
Tanya, Belgrade, Serbia
UK and the rest of the West world have a long way to go yet, to understand that they are not the best and that there are other nice places and civilizations... Droping bombs , making wars doesn't makle you better. Serbs are one of the oldest people, with culture and dignity. Uk+US= failed...
Linda, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
definitely best nightlife in europe...they have a think the prettiest women in europe.clubs and restaurants are really good...i suggest you to visit this city.you wouldnt regret...
jose, Mexico city, Mexico
Belgrade perhaps lacks cultural diversity, but it doesn't lack cultural acceptance. Serbia is not a country of immigration, like west European countries, simply because it cannot offer economic perspective for immigrants, like most west European countries. It is the country of emigration.
Aleksandra, Belgrade, Serbia
That is the only reason why Serbia and Belgrade lacks cultural diversity in the brother sense that West European countries know.
But people in Belgrade are cosmopolitan, friendly and open minded.
Aleksandra, Belgrade, Serbia
I completely disagree with the comment about Belgrade lacking cultural diversity and acceptance. Belgrade is a multinational city and everyone has always and always will be well accepted. Sorry if you had a bad experience, maybe you had run into some wrong people. They are always some of those aroun
neve, new york, usa
I can understand Cuthbert's perspective, coming from an exciting city like Manchester.
Gary, Melbourne, Australia
Belgrade is a 'happening place' for those in and around the Balkans, however it lacks the cultural diversity, cultural acceptance and multi-cultural joie-de-vivre of bigger ,more affluent cities and more creative cities - sorry Belgrade :(
Cuthbert Smythe-Jones, manchester, UK
It's really a city that loves the night. Sure you have you pick of clubs and great restaurants serving until the wee hours but any night you'll also see everyone - little kids too out strolling the open shops and pedestrian zones down town. They really got something. Even from New Orleans I envy!
Joshua, New Orleans, USA
Spot-on article. I followed my Serbian girlfriend to Belgrade a year ago and was very sorry to leave. What a great place! I will certainly be returning; for more than one reason...
Andrew, Dubai, UAE
A very positive and realistic article. If you want to experience something different and unforgettable, come to Belgarde, you won't regret it!
Danijela, Belgrade, Serbia
It always a pleasure to see Belgrade and Serbia get positive press on the road to getting back to their rightful place in the region and Europe. All of us who know Belgrade, already know what a great city it is.
Borka, London,
I am o glad i live here,i look forward to all toursists to come to visist.I suggest visiting MAINLY THE CENTER AND THE KALEMEGDAN,also Ada Ciganlija,New Belgrade and Zemun
WELCOME TO BELGRADE EVERYONE :D
NIKOLA, BELGRADE, SERBIA
i love belgrade!
irena, toronto, canada
I was lucky enough to visit Amsterdam, Berlin, Vienna, Prague, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Budapest, Bratislava, Podgorica and Belgrade in a 4-week solo tour. Belgrade is easily in the top five of the capitals I visited because it is so cosmopolitan - influenced by the past and the future, full of life. 321
Aleks, Winnipeg, Canada
Do not forget to visit Duff and taste the best burgers in Belgrade. There are 5 of them and almost everyone knows where they are so getting directions should not be a problem
Ivan, Belgrade,
Often restaurants by the river serve terrible greasy rubbish so beware. Finally a great scene but no proper gypsy clubs in city centre!!! Why not? And dont mention the black panther as its a nightmare to get to - especially for a tourist!
Caslav McKenzie, Glasgow, Scotland
It is small, hard to find and looks closed most of the time. The food is excellent, huge portions and very cheap. Try the excellent veal soup, mixed grill and filled pancake for dessert if you can manage a dessert. ? is nice and in a good location but food not quite as good.
Caslav McKenzie, Glasgow, Scotland
As a Scot with a Serbian wife and family I visit Belgrade on numerous occasions every year. Belgrade is fantastic. I have to recommend the finest cheapest restaurant in Belgrade. Ra or Рас in Cyrillic is a small restaurant in a small arcade sort of place right behind the big cathedral(City Centre)
Caslav McKenzie, Glasgow, Scotland
DO NOT MISS abar (Frog) a river raft restaurant near Monce at Zemun quay
nenad, Auckland, New Zealand
Belgrade and the whole of Serbia has a long way to go yet, but I hope they soon join the EU where they rightfully belong.
Howard Rhoades, London, UK
Its on a par with Caernarfon, no doubt about that.
hood, denbigh, wales
Fantastic place!!!!
Stanley, Oxford, GB
Now how about some cheap flights London to Belgrade?
Bojan Timotijevic, London, UK
DO NOT MISS:
"Stepin Vajat" for the best grill meat (pljeskavica and chevapcici) in Belgrade!
Z. Ristic, Belgrade,
It's an amazing place to have fun and enjoy the night life. I can confirm that the women in Silicon valley are simply the best ever.
Andrea, Monaco,
oh,it is a very interisting palace.and I want to introduce another.that is Hue city,my love.
hoa, hue, vietnam