IF I were a little bit larger, I would have been able to stretch from the door to the window of my compartment on the 22.00 Night Riviera Sleeper train from Penzance to Paddington.

I could reach easily across, from the wall by the bed to the wall with a metal coat-hanger and a sign telling me to keep my possessions safe. It was a tiny space. But it was the most that I'd ever had all to myself on a train in Britain. And for that reason alone, I really liked the First Great Western Night Riviera Sleeper Service.

My berth was neat and comfortable, with mahogany-effect panels, a large mirror on the door, a lilac desk (which I later discovered to conceal a sink), two bottles of “Decantae: the Prince of Natural Waters”, and a black-out blind. There were two bunks with purple blankets and crisp white sheets. All very smart; the carriages have just had a £2 million refit, according to the website.

I was travelling alone and had asked for a private berth when I booked. The fare for the journey was £26.50, for which I could sit in a normal seat. However, I paid £30 extra for the sleeping cabin and was told by the bookings man: “You might be lucky and have one to yourself.”

Then, when I was on the train, a charming female steward told me that I would have to share, but could pay an extra £30 to take a compartment with two bunks for myself. Total bill: £86.50. But given how scandalously high British train fares can be, this didn't feel too bad.

Plus there was the novelty factor. I had never been given a “night bag” on a train before. On inspection, this kit revealed itself to include earplugs, an eye mask, needles and thread, an emery board, toothpaste and toothbrush, and a tiny block of shoe polish. You don't get that on the 07.52 to Waterloo.

The corridors were narrow with emerald-green spotlights lining the floor. I followed the lights to the buffet carriage. Here there were snacks and sandwiches, plus beers and wines; small bottle of wine a steep £4.75.

I fell asleep in the purple bed, and woke at 05.11 as the train pulled into Paddington with a series of horn blasts that made me think of mating whales. The journey in the other direction leaves at 23.45 and arrives in Penzance at 08.00. We were perfectly on time. I ate my hot breakfast (included) and strolled through the empty station past a statue of Isambard Kingdom Brunel to the Tube. If only all trains were as comfortable and punctual.

Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £86.50 for a private berth

Sampling the fare BLT sandwich, £2.95

Best thing Novelty factor

Worst thing The food

Need to know First Great Western (0845 6786980, www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk)

Berth 8 out of 10

Food 3.5 out of 10

Service 8 out of 10

Value 6 out of 10

Score 6.38

Times recommends

• Overlanding then and now
• Live Q&A: ski fitness and injury
• Get the right payment card and deny Ryanair its hefty fee