Spain ranks among the most highly urbanised countries in Europe, with more
than three quarters of its population living in towns or cities.
Consequently its interior is dotted with hundreds of deserted villages, a
hangover from the country's rural past. Let us therefore leave behind the
beetling blocks of concrete and the swathes of asphalt, and take to the
steel rail. For through the train window one is offered a unique insight
into secret, rural Spain.
A Coruña to Madrid
A 737km trip across the best landscapes in the northwest of Spain. From the
patchwork quilt "bocage" of coastal Galicia through high moorlands
of heather and bracken to Ourense in the lush valley of the Miño, where
orange trees bear fruit in the early spring. Then upwards into the wild,
remote mountains ranges on the border between Spain and Portugal. The
Pennines - on a grander scale.
Through the vineyards of the Duero valley between Zamora and Toro, and across
the broad, cereal-growing plains of the 'Tierra de Campos' to Medina del
Campo and Ávila. Finally, through the rugged granite highlands which join
the Sierra de Guadarrama to the Sierra de Gredos, and onto the interminable
descent through the sprawling suburbs of the capital with the plains of
Castilla-La Mancha spreading out to infinity.
To cover the whole route in one day, in daylight, your only option is the
Saturdays only 09.00 Talgo from A Coruña to Madrid. A comfortable, leisurely
nine and a half hour run, for a bargain 43.00 euros in turista and
just 56.50 euros in roomy preferente class. There is a restaurant car
for sustenance. From Madrid-Chamartín the daily 13.23 departure means that
except in high summer the last part of the run northbound is in the dark.
The same applies to the Sundays to Fridays 12.45 departure from A Coruña.
Alternatively you could spread the trip over three or four days, using Renfe
Regionales services to hop between cities (plus the Talgo, the only through
train of the day, between Ourense and Zamora). This works out at 46.35 euros
using the cheapest services.
In A Coruña ride the coastal tramway, worked using lovingly restored vehicles
built nearly a century ago. The line starts near the old port and passes
close to the Torre de Hércules, a Roman lighthouse built in the second
century AD and still operational today. Santiago de Compostela needs no
introduction - just follow the crowds up the hill from the station to the
old quarter and cathedral.
Ourense has a delightful medieval stone bridge spanning the Miño, overshadowed
by the lofty railway viaduct a short distance upstream. Spare a thought for
those who toiled to build the line through the mountains (the Spanish "Settle
& Carlisle") from Ourense to Puebla de Sanabria and Zamora in the
1940s and 1950s. Republican political prisoners, they lived in crowded,
insanitary work camps and laboured in almost pitch darkness to bore the
countless lengthy tunnels.
Puebla de Sanabria (24 hours between the Talgo services to and from Zamora)
has a picturesque old hilltop quarter and is a good base for rambling.
Zamora's old district, overlooking the Duero, is worth an exploration. So
are the main plaza and the neighbouring streets in Medina del Campo. A
frequent bus service links the station at El Escorial with the town centre
and Felipe II's monumental palace, high on the mounrtainside. Try to spot
the deer as the train traverses El Pardo, Madrid's vast, car-free 'green
lung' situated just to the north of the city.
Gijón to León
From sea level to an altitude of 1270m in just 115 km. An unforgettable
journey up the formidable Rampa de Pajares, a 50km incline which lifts
trains over the mountains of the Cordillera Cantábric, on a continuous 1 in
50 gradient. Inaugurated in 1885, boasting close on a hundred tunnels, this
incredible railway was one of the boldest civil engineering works of its
kind in nineteenth century Europe.
In preference to the busy, twice-daily Talgo services, where you will be
assigned to a reserved seat, catch the lunchtime Regionales train from Gijón
to León, returning mid-evening. Not only is this far cheaper (8.50 euros
each way as opposed to 17.50); there will usually be fewer passengers (at
least beyond Pola de Lena), so you will be free to move at will from one
side of the train to the other to enjoy the best of the scenery.
Pola de Lena, at the southern end of the Asturian coalfield (the deep valleys,
with their mining villages, are well worth exploring by train, too), and the
Pajares pass are separated by just 21km as the crow flies. The train covers
three times that distance, doubling back on its route and exploring every
side valley in order to gain height. There is one point near Campomanes
where three levels of track, at altitudes of 450m, 630m and 750m, are
separated by a straight line distance of barely 800m. And since the railway
clings to the mountainsides high above the valley floors, the views -
westwards, to the high summits of the Somiedo natural park - can be
stupendous. Weather permitting.
Ribes to Núria and Monistrol to Montserrat
Two metre gauge rack railway gems to savour. Ribes de Freser to Núria, in the
eastern Pyrenees, celebrates its 75th anniversary in 2006. The easiest
access by rail to Ribes is via the Renfe line from Barcelona - with hourly
trains for most of the day, and bargain through fares to Núria. You could
also approach via Toulouse and La Tour de Carol, or from Perpignan, taking
in SNCF's metre gauge Petit Train Jaune between Villefranche and La Tour,
operated using electric trains nearly a century old.
Having skirted the ancient town centre of Ribes, the Núria line heads up a
pastoral valley as far as Queralbs, where the serious climbing begins. A
vertiginous mountain panorama opens up, only to be cut off abruptly as the
railway enters a deep gorge, carved by the foaming river Núria. A final
tunnel brings the line out alongside an artificial lake at the far end of
which is the hotel complex of Vall de Núria, which at 1964m above sea level,
is the highest station in Spain. There is a footpath following the line
between Queralbs and Núria - best attempted on a fine day.
Train services are generally hourly, with relief services at weekends during
the ski season. At Ribes-Vila FGC has converted part of the depot into a
museum of the line. First-generation trains can be chartered at a reasonable
price as far as Queralbs. The latter is a typical Pyrenean mountain hamlet,
with a number of sensitively-restored ancient buildings. Up at Núria the
hotel complex is luxuriously appointed, catering mainly for the ski-ing
fraternity. More modest accommodation can be found in Ribes - my own
favourite being the long-established Prats, on the main street.
After nearly half a century of closure, the mountain railway from Monistrol to
the monastic complex at Montserrat was resurrected in 2003. Access to
Monistrol is via the FGC metre gauge line (hourly services) from
Barcelona-Plaça d'Espanya station at the western end of the city centre
(served by the metro network). Again, through tickets are available,
including an all-day pass entitling one to use the Sant Joan and Santa Cova
funiculars at Montserrat (some types of pass also include a meal voucher). A
morning visit is recommended, since this is when the eastern flank of the
Montserrat massif receives most sunlight. From the train, the breathtaking
view throughout the ascent is of the gorge carved by the Llobregat, and the
wooded ranges beyond, stretching away to the Pyrenees.
Montserrat - specifically the Abat Cisneros hotel - is a useful base for
exploring the Barcelona area if one wants to escape noise, pollution and
high prices. The booming peal of morning bells, usually just before dawn, is
magnificent. And with the Montserrat massif being criss-crossed with a
network of waymarked footpaths, there are excellent walking opportunities.
One potential snag is that the train service from Monistrol finishes early
in the evening, but one can always walk up the 10km access road to work up
an appetite for dinner.
Algeciras to Antequera, Granada and Almería
Imagine riding through a desert, with blossom blooming and oranges ripening in
the valley below you, and snow-covered slopes rising to the heavens beyond.
Travel to Almería by train early in the year, and such an experience can be
yours.
Break the 481km journey from Algeciras to Almería into stages if you can,
bearing in mind that trains only run three or four each way, daily. The
single run currently costs 29.70 euros, and since seats on all trains are
reservable, advance booking is advisable. Standing passengers are not
allowed.
The hilltop town of Ronda, with its spectacular gorge, is an obvious choice
for a first stopover, though the station is a lengthy walk from the main
attractions. Antequera also has a wealth of old buildings overlooking the
cereal and wine-producing lowlands of interior Andalucía. Granada? Comments
as for Santiago. The station is a fair walk from the Alhambra, though! Close
to the terminus in Almería there is a massive staithe, used in the past for
the embarking of iron ore mined by British-owned companies on the northern
flanks of the Sierra Nevada.
Personally I feel it is the wealth of landscapes, which makes this journey so
remarkable. The roadless gorges of the Guadiaro on the long climb through
the mountains from Algeciras to Ronda. The abrupt transition at Almargen
from wild uplands to cultivated, irrigated farmland. Mountains again
crowding in on the line to the east of Antequera. The arid, lunar landscapes
around Guadix, where over 6,000 families live in trogladyte dwellings. And
Europe's only true hot desert, so popular for the filming of Westerns that
just outside Almería there is an area known as Mini-Hollywood.
Madrid - Cuenca - València - Teruel - Zaragoza - Sigüenza - Madrid (The
Empty Triangle)
If someone were to ask me to locate "real Spain", I would advise
them to head for a location somewhere on the borders of Guadalajara, Teruel
and Soria provinces. Scorching sun and forest fires dominate midsummer, and
drifting snow and metre-long icicles, midwinter. Teruel province has been
overlooked by governments and holidaymakers so much it has a publicity
campaign: "Teruel existe!".
The train will not take you to the heart of this enchanted region, but by
offering you glimpses it will perhaps whet your appetite for more intimate
exploration.
Using the services of Renfe Regionales, you will pay a minimum of 57.10 euros
for this round trip of 1,110 km (a bit more on faster trains). At under 20
céntimos a kilometre that is some bargain! In preference to a Madrid hotel,
opt for somewhere outside the city like Aranjuez or Cercedilla where you
will be regarded more as a local than a tourist. I had a delicious
three-course lunch with wine for just seven euros at Cercedilla in the
Sierra de Guadarrama last June.
Your overnight stops en route would ideally be Cuenca (famous for its 'casas
colgadas' overlooking the gorge, and its old quarter), València (the
terminus is a stone's throw from the mainly pedestrianised city centre) or
Teruel (always fails to appeal to me, perhaps because of the horrendous
traffic), Zaragoza, and Sigüenza (old quarter and the Parador, a
magnificently restored castle).
Train services are not frequent. Four pairs a day between Madrid, Cuenca and
València, through the highland wilderness of the Serranía de Cuenca and the
gorges between the wine-producing town of Requena and Buñol, down on the
littoral. Three pairs over the mountain line from València and Sagunt
through the lonely, beautiful region known as El Maestrat to Teruel and
Zaragoza.
If you have the time, hire a car in Teuel to drive to the mountain village of
Albarracín, surrounded by walls and fortifications. If you have even more
time, drive on through the wilds to Molina de Aragón, similarly fortified.
This was once an important iron ore mining region. The mining company, based
at Ojos Negros in the Sierra Menera, built its own metre gauge railway, over
200km, although much of the trackbed is now a cycle path. Between Zaragoza,
Sigüenza and Madrid just one train pair now runs (early evening westbound,
morning eastbound) using the scenic old main line through the gorges of the
Jalón, skirting the hilltop village of Medinaceli with its Roman gateway
(visible from the train), and Jadraque, with its impressive ruined castle.
Madrid to Burgos - "El Directo"
Inaugurated by Franco in 1968 after four decades of intermittent construction,
the railway from Madrid to Burgos was the fulfillment of a century-old
dream. It cut 90km and 100 minutes off the roundabout trip via Avila and
Valladolid. Less than forty years on, Renfe and the Government are doing
their best to kill it off.
There is only one passenger train each way daily - the Talgo express from
Madrid to Bilbao and Hendaye. And to enjoy this journey in daylight, you
have to do it northbound. The train currently leaves Madrid-Chamartín at
14.50, hopefully reaching Burgos at 18.06. I say hopefully because
maintenance on the line has been reduced to a minimum; in autumn 2005
services were diverted via Valladolid for two weeks because of a signalling
failure. The residents of the large industrial town of Aranda de Duero, the
only intermediate station still open, are campaigning vigorously for the
line's survival, resulting in one stay of execution after another. Single
fare Madrid to Burgos is currently 25.00 euros.
The first hundred or so kilometres out of Madrid are spent scaling the granite
flanks of the Sierra de Guadarrama, to the long summit tunnel at Somosierra.
Beyond lies the vastness of the upper Meseta, spanned by the canyon of the
Riaza river, the lofty railway viaduct sandwiched between a couple of
tunnels. As the forested north-facing escarpment of Guadarrama recedes, the
summits of yet another great wilderness, the Sierra de la Demanda, rise over
the horizon to the northeast. The hilltop town of Lerma, between Aranda and
Burgos, is a historic monument in its own right, with a superb Gothic
cathedral and narrow streets around the old quarter. Before you leave the
forecourt, look at the stone unveiled by Franco on the day of the Directo's
inauguration, 4 July 1968.
Spanish rail travel tips
Access to Spain: Overland by rail from London to Paris (Eurostar) and onwards
to Irún/Hendaye or Portbou/Cerbère is feasible in one day.
However, for a first/last night stopover my personal preference would be for
Bayonne, St. Jean-de-Luz, or Collioure in France, all with hotels within
easy walking distance of the stations. By air - Barcelona and Málaga
airports are rail-served (Renfe); Madrid (Barajas) is served by Metro de
Madrid Line 8. By sea - Brittany Ferries from Plymouth to Santander; the
Santander ferry terminal is a short level walk from the joint Renfe/Feve
station.
Luggage: Travel light. A squashable bag conforms more easily to train luggage
racks than a rigid suitcase on wheels.
When to go: Avoid if you can Easter and the summer months (July/August) when
hotels and many popular long distance trains are fully booked weeks, even months
in advance. Outside these periods accommodation prices are usually far more
tempting, and hotel and restaurant staff are not rushed off their feet.
Hotels: The best bargains are often to be found away from the major cities
and tourist attractions. And it is in more modest establishments that you
will experience Spain as an insider. Be warned, though! English is still not
widely spoken (and with seven or more regional languages nor is textbook Castellano!)
Expect to pay between 30 and 50 euros for a clean, ensuite twin room,
breakfast usually a few euros extra.
Eating out: The lunchtime (and sometimes evening) menú del día
can be fun, and a bargain. And if you are travelling by train, the
breathalyser is not to be feared! Restaurants at major Feve stations offer a
three-courser with wine for around eight euros; Best bet is to look for a mesón
full of workers. Or if you are stuck, but know some Spanish, ask "Dónde
se come aquí" Invariably you will be guided to the "right"
place.
Research: All train operators have their own websites with timetables, though
not all sites have English versions. Try these for starters: www.renfe.es
(most of the 1668mm gauge network and high speed lines); www.feve.es (metre
gauge north coast except Euskadi, and Cartagena to Los Nietos);
www.euskotren.es (Basque metre gauge), www.tib.caib.es (train services on
Mallorca); www.fgv.es (metre gauge trains in and around València, plus
the Alacant to Dénia line), and www.fgc.es (metre gauge and 1435mm
gauge radiating from Barcelona, Lleida to La Pobla de Segur, and the 600mm
gauge museum line at La Pobla de Lillet in the Pyrenees).
Tickets: By north European standards, all train fares in Spain are a bargain.
For Madrid there is the useful Abono Turístico Regional de Transportes
with Zona A covering the metropolitan area and Zona T the entire province
plus Guadalajara, available for between one and seven days (Zona A - 3.50
euros for one day, Zona T - 36.70 euros for seven days), and valid on
trains, buses and metro. For Barcelona the zonal T-Día 24-hour tickets
(train, bus and metro) range in price from 4.80 to 13.55 euros. Feve rail is
an all-lines, all-trains 30-day (75 euros) or 60-day (126 euros) rover ticket,
available at staffed stations, on trains, and online. Eurodomino tickets are
only valid for Renfe, cost £81 second class and £113 first class for
three days with add-on days at £21 and £30 respectively. They
include some second class (but not first class) supplements, but not seat
reservation fees. Given the attractive level of standard fares, Eurodomino
is probably not worth the hassle unless you want to spend all day and all
night travelling!
