It was late November and, somehow, I still had 13 days leave. I was knackered and in desperate need of some wintersun - but with a boyfriend whose work schedule wouldn't allow him to join me, and whose girlfriends had spent all their leave. If I wanted to get away, I'd have to go it alone. Or use valuable holiday chilling at home - or even worse, Christmas shopping...

I'd always considered myself rather independent with a healthy sense of adventure, but the idea of being alone on a package holiday was rather scary. Being comfortable in your own company is one thing - spending a week sunbathing on your tod, even with a good novel and a pile of glossies, would be enough to send me bonkers. The idea was to return home relaxed, not insane. So I flirted with the idea of a joining a flotilla in the Caribbean before opting for Egypt. Only five hours' flight time, year-round sunshine, and with the Red Sea offering some of the best diving in the world: I took a leap of faith and decided to head to the Sinai and learn to scuba for a week.

Longwood Holidays' brochure stated that it brings "like-minded people together in a relaxed and comfortable environment." Which I translated as, "don't worry you're not the only one who doesn't have anyone to go on holiday with." I gave the company a call and spoke to Dan, a divemaster himself, clearly experienced in dealing with solo trip first timers.

He explained that, "loads of people are happy to go diving on their own because you always team up with a 'dive buddy' and dive in a group". As it turned out, the dates for the next single week didn't work for me, but I signed up on their recommendation for the Learn to Dive package at the same hotel, Bedouin Moon, in Dahab - a "laid-back village on the Sinai Peninsula, renowned for unspoilt beaches, spectacular diving and a key stop off on the backpacker trail." It sounded ideal.

Heading to the airport with no-one to share the excitement of going on holiday was a little strange, but before I knew it I was in a minibus hurtling through the desert chatting non stop to Christina, 30, a fellow Londoner who, although a qualified diver was in exactly the same boat as me. After about an hour, we arrived at the charming whitewashed hotel a mile outside the town, between the Red Sea and the Sinai mountains where we were greeted by the two hotel dogs.

Although my room was quite basic, it was clean and comfortable with stunning views of the sea at the front, and a rear view overlooking a gorgeous pool, bar area and yoga centre, with floodlit landscaped gardens. I'd hardly had time to take it all in before I was off for supper and several glasses of local wine with Christina and the other guests. From that moment on it was if I'd never come on my own. Later on, I retired to bed leaving the balcony door ajar - I felt safe and a very long way from London.

The Reef 2000 dive school is attached to the hotel. After an early breakfast, I met Sabry, my 35-year-old dive instructor, whose reputation was of being the best in Dahab and successfully teaching 1,000 people. It also helped that I would be learning with Jamie, 27 a construction project manager, who would be my "dive buddy". After being kitted out, or rather squeezed into our scuba gear, Sabry outlined the training programme. The PADI Open Water course would take four days and be a combination of practical and theoretical training. Also there would be no mucking around in swimming pools. And, true to his word after a morning at base, we were whisked off to the Lighthouse Reef putting theory into practice.

Far more difficult than I imagined, Sabry was incredibly patient as I struggled to come to terms with the fact that I was breathing underwater. Scuba diving, I discovered, is a bit of mental battle. But, practice makes perfect and under our instructors excellent tuition my "dive buddy" Jamie and I were soon getting to grips with the sport in between hysterical laughing fits. The beachside Dahab restaurants became our classroom and on return to base, we were debriefed before joining other divers for beers. Learning had never been such fun.

That's not to say it wasn't both physically and mentally demanding. Moving around in full scuba gear was a work out in itself and with all the training and study required to learn this sport safely, plus a few scary moments, learning to dive was no walk in the park. Therefore, it was both an exciting and proud moment when Sabry congratulated us on qualifying as PADI Open Water Divers at the end of Day 4. It also meant that I could spend the rest of the week sunbathing by the pool, pottering around the bazaars, take a yoga class or even try out Yoga Diving.

Sabry had other ideas and, after convincing me that I didn't want to miss out on The Canyon, (one of the reasons so many divers come to Dahab), I signed up for the Advanced Course. I'm so glad I did, for it was at this beautiful dive site, that I truly understood why so many people love to dive. Dropping over the edge of the reef canyon at 18 metres, then spiralling down to the cavern 30 metres below, taking a few minutes on the sandy seabed with numerous marine life, was a magical, almost life-changing experience. The next day boat diving at Garb El Bint, with its incredible Gorgonian forests, big walls and schools of reef fish was equally impressive - it made the all the hard work worthwhile.

Diving is hungry work, and heading off to town for dinner was an adventure in itself. For £1, six of us would pile into the back of a taxi pickup and head to candle-lit beachside restaurants and chill out bars with oversized cushions and hubbly bubbly pipes. Ridiculously cheap, we were dining out like kings for an average £7.

Most excursions were unavailable s we were out of season, but on one glorious full moon evening, Barbara, the resident yoga teacher, arranged a meditation and supper with Bedouin up in the mountains. With most of us new to meditation it was quite an experience sitting crossed legged in the moonlight, clearing our overloaded minds and feeling so relaxed - especially as only a few days before, none of us had even met.

My seven days were up but I wasn't ready to go and could have easily spent another week at the Bedouin Moon, with its laid-back ambience, attentive staff, excellent dive team and my newfound friends. I also wanted to experience more of what Dahab had to offer; I hadn't dived The Blue Hole, tried Yoga Diving or fully explored the streets and bazaars. I made a promise to myself to return with friends. But then again, I'd happily go back on my own - it's definitely more of an adventure.

Need to know:

Although other dive holiday companies are more than happy for people to come alone for a supplement, Longwood Holidays specifically arranges single traveller weeks. Prices cost from £319, including flights, transfers and B&B at Bedouin Moon. Learn to Dive Package cost from £149 and advanced courses, £125. Dive courses available at www.reef2000.org

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