On the neighbouring ranch, Kuku, is another ecolodge, Campi ya Kanzi. Although there are no collared lion here, during a walk in the southern Chyulu hills we come across lion droppings — the contents of which show a meal of Grant’s gazelle. A pair of lion are spotted near the airstrip and after dinner we sit on the terrace under a star-studded sky listening to a lion’s roars.

Leaving the Chyulus in a light aircraft, I head for Loisaba on the Laikipia plateau, west of Mount Kenya. It is among several private ranches participating in the Laikipia Predator Project, which studies the ecology and conservation of animals that come into conflict with man. Loisaba has nine collared lions, named after characters in films — Pussy Galore, Gandalf and Aragon, Thelma and Louise, Bilbo and Frodo, Romulus (Remus was killed in 2003), and a newly collared but unnamed female.

My guide is Peter Lotoloi, a feisty, 6ft tall Turkana, often known by his radiocall-up sign “Papa Lima”. Switching on the radio, he picks up the signals for Bilbo and Frodo and then switches from the lion frequency to check out wild dogs and striped hyena which have also been collared as part of the research project. We get close to Bilbo and Frodo, but they are out of sight in a gulley.

Undaunted, Papa Lima drives to another hill where we pick up the signal of the new female. The beep of the transmitter becomes louder, like a heartbeat against the crackle of the radio. Even with tracking equipment it is fiendishly difficult to find the lioness.

Suddenly, we spot the neat rounded ears in the scant shade of a thorny bush. We can see our vehicle tracks in the grass; the first time we had driven straight past — such is the camouflage of lion. Later in the day we find Gandalf and Aragon, two magnificent animals with gleaming coats.

Lions have an 80 per cent “pull factor” for tourists as opposed to 15 per cent for other key species such as elephant. Once I would have shrunk from viewing wild lions with collars, but it’s fascinating to see how research is ensuring their survival.

Claire Foottit is the author of Kenya: The Bradt Travel Guide (£14.99).

NEED TO KNOW

Claire Foottit travelled with The Ultimate Travel Company (020-7386 4646, www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk) and Kenya Airways (01784 888233, www.kenya-airways.com).

Getting there: The Ultimate Travel Company offers ten-night trips staying at Ol Donyo Wuas, Campi ya Kanzi, Loisaba and Manda Bay Lodge from £3,295 per person.

Events: Wildlife charity, The Born Free Foundation, has 21st anniversary events at The Royal Geographical Society in London from March 14-19. Talk by Virginia McKenna, 7pm on March 16, tickets £12.50. Details: 01403 240170, www.bornfree.org.uk.

Reading: Collins African Wildlife (HarperCollins, £18.99).

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