As for the appeal of surfing, opinions were divided. For Chris Noble, who counts Scotland’s famed Thurso East as his local break, surfing is simply “fun,” while for John McCarthy, a born-again Christian and Irish big-wave surfer based in Lahinch, County Clare, “surfing is a taste of heaven.” The UK’s best female surfer, Robyn Davies, told me that being out of action through injury for the best part of 18 months made her feel like her heart “had been broken in two.”

All of them are right, but the only way to find out why is to get in the water and give surfing a try. A word of warning, though: once you’ve ridden a wave, you’ll be addicted for life.

Alex Wade’s top five surf spots for beginners

Sennen Cove, Cornwall – an exquisite bay that picks up any swell going with waves suitable for all levels of ability. Contact www.sennensurfingcentre.com and www.smartsurf.co.uk for lessons.

Watergate Bay, Cornwall – surf with all mod cons thanks to the chic and relaxed Hotel and Extreme Academy, Watergate Bay. A place created to be “a ski resort on the beach.” See www.watergatebay.co.uk

Saunton Sands, North Devon – gentle, rolling waves and a seemingly endless expanse of beach. Perfect for beginners and the scene of quality longboarding. Lessons can be booked via www.pointbreaks.com

Lahinch, County Clare, Ireland – the hub of Irish surfing, Lahinch Bay has reef, point and beachbreak set-ups. Around the corner, beneath the Cliffs of Moher, is the big-wave surf spot known as Aileens. John McCarthy runs the Lahinch Surf School – www.lahinchsurfschool.com

Saltburn-by-the-Sea, North Yorkshire – the elegant Victorian town is a gem with a wide, sandy beach and an immense headland jutting out into the North Sea. It boasts the world’s oldest water-powered cliff lift as well as great waves. Lessons can be booked with Saltburn Surf Hire – www.saltburnsurf.co.uk

But for experts…

Porthleven, Lizard Peninsula, Cornwall - England’s best reef break. Often crowded with surfers of the highest standard – don’t paddle out here unless you’re in that category.

Crab Island, the Gower Peninsula, Wales – a legendary right-hand reef break that demands respect

Thurso East, Scotland – no surprise that this immaculate right-hand reef break has hosted the O’Neill Highland Open for the past two years. A world-class wave but very, very cold in the winter.

Alex Wade’s Surf Nation: In Search of the Fast Lefts and Hollow Rights of Britain and Ireland is published by Simon & Schuster, £12.99, on 2 July

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