Liam joined Ben’s group for a refresher lesson, as much as you would after learning bad habits in skiing. One lad, no more than nine, says: “It’s my first day — and I can already stand up.” Liam kindly listens.

It is low tide, so Ben explains that the waves roll in quicker. “Watch out for nose dives,” he says, which is when the board catches the wave and tips over. The group spends 30 minutes on the beach practising how to stand up in the surf, and signals for distress. Then they’re off, in summer’s foot-high waves, to crest, glide and usually fall off — but with a great sense of achievement.

Surfing has revolutionised Croyde and nearby Woolacombe, the main holiday resorts — along with Newquay — for surfing in the UK.

There are now a dozen surf schools in the area and, on the beach at Croyde that day, the Ocean Fest surf and music festival sponsored by Intel was under way. In the village, still chocolate box with thatched cottages, The Little Pink Surf Shop, Redwood Surfshop and LeSport nestle alongside ice-cream and candyfloss shops. Quiksilver, Billabong and Ripcurl logos compete for holidaymakers’ money alongside those for Mivvis, Cornettos and Flake 99s.

The Blue Groove restaurant is popular and the Home House Hotel has just been refurbished with a contemporary feel. And Damien Hirst has opened a restaurant, No 11, up the road at Ilfracombe.

The story is being repeated in Woolacombe where a seafront hotel caters exclusively for surfers. The Red Barn, a huge bar which hosted the opening party of the European Surf Championships in the spring, is decked out with racks of old surfboards in the timbers and next door, Westbeach has had a makeover into a cool bar and restaurant, with studios to rent.

Says Darren: “For the first couple of years, we marketed Croyde as an attractive place: now we don’t have to do much. It has a reputation. We have taken the Australian aspect of outdoor life and added a few patio heaters.”

Page 2: need to know
Page 3: how to handle a wipeout

()NEED TO KNOW

Surf South West (01271 890400, www.surfsouthwest.com).

A two-hour group lesson at Croyde costs £25 at weekends and during July/August; at other times £20.

WOOLACOMBE

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