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But a £95.5 million, decade-long makeover has introduced high-tech lift systems, smart hotels and new pistes. Snowparks and half-pipes to match some of the best in the Alps have also been created.
It may have taken ten years, but Andorra has moved well up the pecking order of snowboarding hangouts — it finally has style.
The ski resorts in the pocket-sized principality between France and Spain are divided into three umbrella areas — Val Nord, Grand Valira and Ordino-Arcalis.
Val Nord, in the northeast of the country, takes in the resorts of Arinsal and Pal and, at first glance, lacks much “steep stuff” — more than half the runs on the piste map are intermediate. But Pal has some excellent off-piste (or freeride) terrain between the trees, close to a black run called La Comellada.
Arinsal also has a superb freeride area — a “managed” off-piste area near the Porte Negré cable car that links Arinsal to Pal. (It is rumoured that frequent disputes between the ski stations mean that you should check if it is actually running.) Grand Valira, nearer the French border, is what Andorra has been shouting about for the past two years, with good reason.
With nearly 200km of Andorra’s total 290km of piste, it is an amalgamation of the Pas de la Casa, Grau Roig, Soldeu and El Tarter resorts. The link may have taken years to firm up but it created a ski resort of European dimensions and was the crowning glory in Andorra’s makeover.
Like Val Nord, on-piste Grand Valira has been labelled an intermediate resort, but look beyond the piste markers and in Grand Valira you can find the stuff of snowboarders’ dreams.
Between pistes there are plenty of “hits” (natural jumps) to play on. In Soldeu, red and black trails descend through the powder fields below Pic d’Encampadana and, on a powder day in Grau Roig, the southeast-facing slopes to the right of the Mont Malus are heaven. The easiest way to find the best off-piste in a resort is to ask the locals or follow the skiers who stay for the whole season.
When the snow falls in Andorra, the freeride tribe heads to the remote resort of Arcalis, a tiny station, which sits at the foot of two horseshoe-shaped bowls, where snow is guaranteed. Of all the resorts in Andorra, Arcalis has the most to offer experts. There is plenty of space between runs for off-piste forays, especially in the Cercle de la Coma area and Arcalis is well known for heli-skiing.
But Andorra has become a hit on the snowboarding scene because of its investment in freestyle snowboarding and skiing. Grand Valira has three well-shaped snowparks, with sound systems blasting out music. The ACG Snowpark El Tarter, with its 120m half-pipe, Big Air — run with two kickers (man-made jumps) with 14m and 20m flat sections — and much-revered “kinked box ”, sees the core of the action. Two smaller parks and the smaller Circuit Freestyle Grau Roig and Pal de la Casa snowpark are good for beginners.
Grand Valira also has its own freestyle snowboarding and ski teams and hosts international freestyle events such as Total Fight Masters.
Despite the makeover, Andorra remains cheaper than the Alps — you can get a beer or an alcopop for under €5 (£3.35).
Further investment of £16.5 million is planned for Andorra, with most being spent on new telecabins and chairlifts.
But the biggest news for boarders is that Grand Valira is to extend over the French border to join the tiny ski station of Porté Puymorens. Despite being something of a backwater, it has a huge snow park and half-pipe. It also has vast freeride potential.
The new resort, Porte des Neiges, will bring together 250km of trails served by about 90 lifts, making Andorra even more attractive.
Susannah Osborne travelled to Andorra with Ski Deals (www.skideals.com). Seven nights at the four-star Princesa Parc Hotel costs from £445pp including flights and transfers from Gatwick. Holiday Extras (www.holidayextras.co.uk) provides eight days’ secure parking at Gatwick from £58.
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