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Better still, I’ll find the new Benaulim. Hop over the state boundary into Maharashtra, for example, and the Konkan coast has the sort of beaches Goa grew fat on — without the techno-raves. Likewise, northern Tanzania, just over the border from Mombasa, has more than 200 miles of palm-fringed coastline — and just four small lodges. Know where to look — please tiptoe as you go — and secret beaches are still there for the combing.
Here is our pick of the best. Where possible, we’ve included operator packages, but some are so far off the tourist map, you’ll have to go it alone.
All prices, unless otherwise stated, are per person, based on two sharing. Flights are from London. Contact the operator for regional departures
KONKAN COAST, India
I only stumbled across Maharashtra’s Konkan coast when my boat from Mumbai stalled on its way to Goa and dumped us, unbidden, at Ganpatipule. Few travellers ever get so lucky: the beach here is long, bone-white and virtually devoid of development save for a 400-year-old temple, backed by forest lush enough to make you feel totally marooned from the bustle beyond. Goa may have the name and the gorgeous Catholic churches, but it also has crowds of idiots twirling ribbons on the beach. Not Ganpatipule.
Nor is Ganpatipule unique on the Konkan coast: along with Tarkarli and Harihareshwar, it’s just one of a string of beautiful beaches running south along the 230-mile stretch between Vasai and Vengurla. What you won’t find here — with the exception of the state-run beach bungalows at Tarkarli — are many hotels worth getting excited about: the region was poorly connected until the Konkan railway recently shortened the journey from Mumbai, and developers have yet to catch on. They will — just make sure you get here before they do.
Crusoe rating: 8 — Goa before the package holiday.
How to do it: Greaves Travel (0870 850 2497, www.greavesindia.com) has six nights, room-only, in India from £1,270, including five nights at Tarkarli Beach Resort, transfers and flights with British Airways and Jet Airways to Goa, via Mumbai.
NINGALOO COAST, Australia
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