It has some of the finest archaeological sites in the world and some of the
holiest places in Islam - but persuading tourists to visit Iraq has to be
one of the toughest jobs around.
Hamood Massam al-Yakoubi, the head of the Iraqi Tourism Board, is confident
that as the violence begins to recede, the brave and curious may be enticed
to the country. “I would like tourists from around the world to visit
because there is a lot to see,” he says.
On that score, he is certainly right. Gathering dust in the entrance hall of a
Baghdad hotel a guidebook from the 1980s displays pictures of Iraq's
attractions, among them the golden dome of the al-Askari shrine, one of the
holiest buildings of Shia Islam.
Of Samarra, where the shrine is, the book says: “The artistic, literary, and
scientific splendours of the city have remained a legend in Arab history.”
As about 200 tourism operators, hoteliers and officials convened this week to
discuss the once-booming industry, the recent drop in violence was
emboldening them to encourage foreigners to return and restore the heyday of
Iraqi tourism.
It may not be an impossible mission, but it is a hard one. Three decades of
war and terrorism have taken their toll on Iraq's treasures. The al-Askari
shrine is being rebuilt after a bomb destroyed it in 2006.
Baghdad Museum was looted after the US-led invasion in 2003, and US troops
were accused of harming artefacts when they built a base at the site of
Babylon.
The 99ft Arch of Ctesiphon - part of what was once the largest city in the
world - was damaged in the Gulf War, and the city of Nineveh, the site of
modern Mosul, is in an area too dangerous to explore.
Neshwar al-Joubouri, 32, a Tourist Ministry employee, bemoaned the state of
the industry and the damage to historic sites. “We are always saying that we
do not have a future but we have a history. Now it feels as though we have
no history and no future,” she said.
Amid claims that the security situation is improving, there are stark
reminders of the dangers. On Tuesday two suicide bombers left at least 28
Iraqi army recruits dead in a province northeast of Baghdad. Two US soldiers
have also been killed this week.
But there are small signs that Mr Yakoubi's plans may one day bear fruit. An
international airport is due to open in the holy city of Najaf at the
weekend, enabling pilgrims to bypass the more dangerous capital and head
straight to the Shia shrines and mosques scattered over the relatively safe
destination.
The majority of religious tourists - about 95 per cent - are from Iran but
there are a handful of Britons. Mr Yakoubi said: “From the European
countries we received around 5,000 tourists this year - groups from Germany,
from Ukraine but most of them are from London. They visit as part of
religious tourism to the cities' shrines, typically spending three days in
Najaf and four days in Karbala.”
Now Mr Yakoubi wants to attract more package tours and independent visitors.
Iraq, regarded as the birthplace of civilisation, was a hugely popular
holiday destination for visitors from countries such as Japan, France and
Germany before Saddam Hussein went to war with Iran in 1980.
“The 1970s was the golden age for tourism in Iraq,” said Hassan alFayath, who
worked as a tourist guide at the time and is now spokesman for the Tourism
Ministry. “War is never good for tourism ... But I think things will get
better.”
He added that the ministry was ready to talk to foreign tour operators
interested in establishing a link with Iraq.
Travel advice from the Foreign and Commonwealth Office is not encouraging.
Britons are warned against visiting, with the exception of a handful of
provinces - and only then if the trip is essential. Guidelines are slightly
less strict for the Kurdish north, where violence has been markedly lower.
For the intrepid, however, Iraq is starting to promote itself overseas. The
tourism board has held a poster competition, with the three winning entries
on display at the tourism fair.
One, featuring the face of an Assyrian statue above various symbols of Iraq,
including a palm tree and a mosque, proclaimed in Arabic: “Yes for peace in
the country of peace.”
Tourism officials insist that anyone, Muslim or non-Muslim, can apply for a
visa at any Iraqi embassy. After a massive drop in business, hotels such as
the Sheraton, the Palestine and the Babylon are being rebuilt and
refurbished. And there are plenty of rooms available.
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Positively Orwellian!
James, Ipswich, England
Tell me: what does it feel like to be invested in the failure of Iraq? How disasterous a successful, strong Iraq would be to those who have predicated their credibility on failure!
Mazin, Baquba, Iraq
Not lost our sense of humour I see. Make sure you get that Irish flag the right way up. Did you know there's a Bobby Sands' street in Teheran (Iran) just by the British Embassy? Paris, too.
Andrew Milner, Karuizawa, Japan
Um, what? Considering the situation right now, this may not be the most prudent time for tourism. In fact, by the time we're done, there may not be much left to see. Well, Dubya's term is almost over. Though his run really should have been over 4 years ago.
Chatman, New Rochelle,
"Welcome to Iraq, the hot new holiday destination .... and please try to keep your head on your body ... enjoy!"
jayil, london, uk
Actually, 3 blogger and student friends of mine have traveled as tourists to Iraq. They weren't flagged, they didn't go to Guantanamo, and they had no issues returning. What's with all the conspiracy theories? I almost obliged an invitation from the Uni. of Dohuk, but couldn't get time off.
Ian, Washington, D.C., USA
Thanks, but no thanks!
Olivia Thompson, Cape Town, South Africa
Here in America they would take my computer, put me on the NO-FLY list, and start bugging my phone saying I was a possible terrorist all the while knowing the truth. George Bush and his cronnies do what ever they want to who ever they want. Their getting to be like the old German SS .
ricci roo, burlington,
Yeah. Right. "Apply for a visa at any Iraqi embassy", go visit "the country of peace" and later try to visit the land of the free and home of the brave (not Scotland). Chances are that your name will be on the wrong database. Even connecting in the said land of the free may mean a trip to Guantanamo
RONNIE, PARIS, FRANCE