It was the Irish novelist George Moore who said, “A man travels the world over in search of what he needs and returns home to find it.”

One could certainly apply this to British travellers who cross time zones seeking out breath-taking landscapes, when their own country boasts wildly beautiful scenery. I was reminded of Moore’s comment as I looked over the Ouseburn Valley from the café terrace of Newcastle’s Biscuit Factory art gallery and store.

While it might be a step too far to put “wildly beautiful” and Newcastle upon Tyne in the same sentence, as many visitors have already discovered, the city and its neighbour Gateshead have been busy returning former industrial areas to a more aesthetic state.

Where once the Ouseburn Valley belched out smoke from the factories that lined the riverside, you can now stroll through pretty parks and canal paths where 15 different species of butterfly flutter in the afternoon sun.

The lower part of the Ouseburn Valley has become a hub of culture, with the crumbling, bleak buildings abandoned by capitalism, reclaimed by its artistic community. The Biscuit Factory is one such enterprise, transforming a once decaying industrial premises into the largest commercial art gallery in Britain.

However, Newcastle upon Tyne’s industrial history has not been forgotten in its pursuit of art installations and £3 cappuccinos. The city has successfully accommodated it into its renaissance, with the refurbishment of the Discovery Museum a great example of this.

This impressive Victorian building houses exhibitions that tell the story of Tyneside’s progression from the Roman settlements to becoming the powerhouse of the British Empire.

The Great North Museum has also had a refurbishment, albeit on a much grander scale, with £25m invested to update what was formerly the Hancock Museum into a multi-media experience.

North East-born author David Almond says his recollections of visiting the Hancock Museum as a child are of a place that was quiet with exhibits hidden under cloths. “And now look at it, there are fantastic video and interactive exhibitions,” he adds.

Almond is particularly a fan of the Seven Stories, Centre for Children’s Books building, once derelict but now a centre dedicated to introducing children to the wonders of books and writing. It's a fantastic venue for families to visit, with talks by children's authors and illustrators, as well as many interactive exhibitions. In Seven Stories, children can be pirates or space explorers for the day.

It’s not just the fabric of Newcastle upon Tyne and its neighbour Gateshead that’s changing, but also public opinion. As more people visit the area, its reputation is changing from one of coatless drinkers on a Saturday night, to a place where one can catch a brilliant new play, hear excellent musicians and also indulge in unique shopping experiences.

London-based actress Emma Brooke discovered Newcastle upon Tyne last year and has become a champion of the city. “I thought I would find a far more industrial place, with grim buildings,” she says.

“I was so impressed with the city. Not only is it lovely to walk around with all the gorgeous buildings and the quayside, but the shopping is amazing and I have had so many great nights out there. I tell my friends in London now to get on a train and get up there and see it for themselves.”

Having friends based in Newcastle upon Tyne has meant that, over the years, I’ve often got on that train solely on the promise of a great night out. During a recent visit, however, I made several new discoveries during the daytime.

Although the city centre is compact, it has many hidden treasures including Bessie Surtees House. This fine Jacobean building was the scene of Bessie’s elopement with John Scott, later Lord Chancellor of England. Another delightful discovery is the Weigh House in the indoor Grainger Market, where stallholders in the 19th century used to check the weight of their stock. Now, the very same scales weigh visitors.

I feel more than justified to say that stepping inside the Literature and Philosophy Society of Newcastle upon Tyne’s library is a breath-taking experience. Not only does it have one of the most beautiful 19th century interiors I’ve ever seen, but the library houses a wealth of unique collections including hand-drawn maps from the 18th century.

As founder of tour guide company Northern Secrets, Alexander Jacobs puts it: “Once here [Newcastle] people are amazed at the beautiful architecture, and most of all, at the many varied experiences that this area of the North East has to offer.”

What to look out for in Newcastle upon Tyne and Gateshead:

1) The marina known as St. Peter's Basin. Small but very pretty area where you can, in the words of Bob Mortimer as Otis Redding, "Watch the ships come in, and go back out again."

2) Grainger Market. This indoor market boasts an original Marks & Spencer penny stall.

3) Seals by the quayside. At high tide they are known to pop onto the pedestrian path to eat their lunch.

4) The Style Team at the Metrocentre, Gateshead every Friday. The orange tan and no tights brigade are actually smaller in numbers in the North East. On a night out it's far more about contemporary fashion and who better to guide you in the latest looks then the Metro Centre stylists who comb its 350 shops on a regular basis so you don't have to.

5) Hidden Rivers tour. A public art project that celebrates the small rivers running beneath Newcastle, follow the trail to learn how communities developed around these rivers. (Pick up a tour guide from the Tourist Information Centre)